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Feb 29, 2012
Remove Light Scratches from Windshield
Convert Your Car to Natural Gas
As it turns out, there are very few technological barriers to overcome. In fact, converting existing vehicles to burn natural gas isn't particularly challenging. Unfortunately, if you tried to do it yourself, you'd more than likely run afoul of the Clean Air Act's rules against modifying fuel systems--a violation that could cost you up to $5000 in fines for every day you drive the converted vehicle. So if you want to green your wheels today, the only way to do it is by hiring a certified compressed-natural-gas (CNG) installer to do the job. To get the skinny on aftermarket CNG systems, I visited NatGasCar in Cleveland. It's a startup shop that augments gasoline cars by installing a parallel natural gas fuel system. They showed me their latest creation, a dual-fuel Dodge Caravan intended for airport taxi service. It starts on gasoline and switches over to natural gas once the engine warms up.
NatGasCar's biggest component is also its most crucial and expensive--the compressed-natural-gas fuel tank situated behind the rear seats in the cargo area. The company uses a Type 4 tank, the most advanced kind. It reduces weight with a plastic composite core wrapped in carbon fiber and is rated for severe impact and puncture resistance.
Natural gas has been used in our homes for generations. Americans use it to run water heaters, home furnaces, stoves, clothes dryers, and other appliances. As a fuel it accounts for 24 percent of our total energy consumption nationwide, all but 1 percent in residential applications. And as we reported last fall ("Drilling Down," September 2011), new fracking techniques are tapping domestic reserves that previously were not economically viable. Vast global supplies are projected to last well into the next century even if natural gas replaces gasoline completely. So it should be no surprise that natural gas will remain incredibly cheap. It runs at one-half to one-third the current cost of gasoline on an energy-equivalent measure. In a properly tuned engine, natural gas combustion delivers 20 percent lower carbon emissions and about a 25 percent reduction in greenhouse gases compared with the cleanest gasoline engines, all without damaging existing catalytic converter systems. So right about now you're probably wondering: Why aren't we putting this stuff in our cars?
Fueling Woes
So a new fuel tank and a little bit of tinkering with the fuel injectors and I'm ready to go, right? Unfortunately not. Natural gas is delivered across the country to millions of homes. But what would seem to be the ideal distribution network is actually the biggest headache of natural gas vehicles. Home natural gas is delivered at about 0.5 psi, but natural gas in vehicles needs to be pressurized to 3600 psi. So if you want to use CNG in your car, you'll need a compressor. A National Fire Protection Association safety standard bans compressed gas storage in homes, so a stand-alone multistage compressor pump in the garage must be hooked up to the vehicle's fuel tank, filling it directly. This leads to fueling times of up to 22 hours (even longer than equivalent home charging times for electric vehicles). Honda's Civic Natural Gas is paired with a home compressor system called Phill ($4500), the only commercially available product of its kind. NatGasCar is developing a compressor system capable of 8-hour fill-ups; the current target price is $3500. Some states have incentivized the installation of high-speed filling systems at gas stations, where fill times are as brief as 4 to 5 minutes, much like gasoline's. But these systems cost $750,000 per station to install, and low demand means there are only 941 high-pressure CNG filling stations scattered across the country, mostly in New York, California, Utah, and Texas.
Economics
Okay, okay, it's a pain to fuel CNG vehicles, but is it worth it? Nationwide, natural gas ranges from 79 cents to $1.50 for a gasoline gallon equivalent (gge) of fuel. That's considerable savings over petroleum-based products, especially considering that CNG vehicles get the same or better relative fuel economy per Btu because of the higher octane rating of natural gas. Our test drives indicated no hit to performance, and a perfectly acceptable range of about 250 miles. But there are some pretty extraordinary initial setup costs. A properly installed conversion will run anywhere from $6500 for a basic system to $12,000 for a top-of-the-line installation with a high-capacity, composite fuel tank. If you want a home fueling compressor, tack on another $3500 minimum. Even at the low end, you're looking at spending enough on the conversion to buy more than 1800 gallons of gasoline at today's prices.
Those prices will ultimately determine the fate of CNG vehicles. High gasoline prices historically have caused furious investment in cheaper, cleaner fuels, followed by a collapse in demand when gas prices fall. For now, CNG has a high price of entry that makes it viable only for taxi services and other fleet operators, but over time, economies of scale may bring down the costs for the ordinary car buyer. And if gasoline stays above $3 a gallon, that change may come sooner rather than later.
Foggy Headlights-How to Prevent it?
When the clear plastic lens is even a little bit cooler than the air inside the housing, droplets of moisture will condense on the inside of the lens. That’s normal. When the outside temperatures come back up in the morning, the moisture will evaporate.
Why there is water inside the lamp assemblies in the first place. As the outside temperature goes down and your nice warm headlamps cool off (either from being in the sun or just from being turned on), cooler, moister outside air trickles into the housings. The housings are vented top and bottom to allow for pressure differences, or they would quickly crack and fail.
Some vehicles don’t vent as well as others. Some drivers keep their cars parked in shady, damp areas or in cool, damp underground parking structures. And the moisture collects not as tiny droplets of mist but as what looks more like raindrops, and can even run down the glass and pool inside the housing.
Check to see if there’s a Technical Service Bulletin for your make and model of vehicle. If so, there may be a retrofit housing or an upgrade to the venting system. If not, you’re on your own. The first thing to try, if all you have is droplets, is to leave your headlights on while driving for a couple of hours, forcing the moisture off. If you have a spoonful or more splashing around, you may need to remove the housing and dry it out. Pour off the excess water, then add a few ounces of rubbing alcohol to the housing, sloshing it around and pouring it out. Repeat. Let the housing dry for a couple of hours in the sun or inside a nice warm house, preferably in some air that’s moving. Check that any vents aren’t plugged with spider eggs or mud. Install the housing and try to park facing south.
Why there is water inside the lamp assemblies in the first place. As the outside temperature goes down and your nice warm headlamps cool off (either from being in the sun or just from being turned on), cooler, moister outside air trickles into the housings. The housings are vented top and bottom to allow for pressure differences, or they would quickly crack and fail.
Some vehicles don’t vent as well as others. Some drivers keep their cars parked in shady, damp areas or in cool, damp underground parking structures. And the moisture collects not as tiny droplets of mist but as what looks more like raindrops, and can even run down the glass and pool inside the housing.
Check to see if there’s a Technical Service Bulletin for your make and model of vehicle. If so, there may be a retrofit housing or an upgrade to the venting system. If not, you’re on your own. The first thing to try, if all you have is droplets, is to leave your headlights on while driving for a couple of hours, forcing the moisture off. If you have a spoonful or more splashing around, you may need to remove the housing and dry it out. Pour off the excess water, then add a few ounces of rubbing alcohol to the housing, sloshing it around and pouring it out. Repeat. Let the housing dry for a couple of hours in the sun or inside a nice warm house, preferably in some air that’s moving. Check that any vents aren’t plugged with spider eggs or mud. Install the housing and try to park facing south.
(Illustration by Dogo)
Car Dealership Service Manager Secret for Auto Repair
Q
What's the worst day of the week to get your car serviced?
A
Friday afternoon after lunch, because the service department is trying to push out as many vehicles as possible. Maybe a car has been there since Monday waiting on parts. Maybe there are a few cars like that. Then people pour in around lunchtime wanting oil changes. And there are the cars there already with appointments, and everyone's in a rush to get it all done. Make an appointment for a Monday morning as early as possible. It's a lot more orderly, and they'll do a better job.
Q
So it's not necessarily more expensive, and they know more about your car. Any other reason?
A
Often times at Jiffy Lube or wherever they're paid by the hour, and they're not necessarily trained to know your vehicle. And that can cost you your engine. If I could get half of what I've charged customers to replace engines that were screwed up by Jiffy Lube and Walmart, for such things as not enough oil, too much oil, the wrong weight of oil, wrong filter, loose filter or any combination of the above, I could have retired a long time ago. There's no point to spending $30,000 to $40,000 on a new vehicle and then trying to go cheap on the maintenance.
Q
What's an example of a common tactic by dealers to pad the bill?
A
So-called shop supplies. That is, and always has been, the biggest crock of crap I've ever seen, and it's been going on for years! It is essentially similar to going to a nice restaurant, getting your check and finding you've been billed for napkins and silverware, which are necessary costs of the food service business. Shop supplies include, but are not limited to, shop rags, lubricants—this isn't the motor oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid and steering fluid they might put in your car—and the cost of disposing of used oil. These are just some of the necessary costs of doing the auto repair business. Some dealers do not charge for them, but most do, and what is considered shop supplies is at the discretion of each individual dealer. I've seen a customer get billed for $30 in shop supplies—on top of their estimate—for the use of three shop rags! For that price, I can buy 20 rolls of shop towels at Auto Zone.
Q
If you got a bill that had shop supplies on it, what would you do?
A
Ask to see exactly what that means. Ask to see the precise items they actually used. Challenge them on it. You might not get them to knock it off your bill, but you should try.
Q
You also said that dealer service departments too often recommend fluid flushes and replacements that aren't called for by the owner's manual. The dealers cite the "severe use" schedule that doesn't apply to the vast majority of us. Should drivers simply veto a service or fluid replacement that isn't recommended—in the owner's manual—under the normal or light-duty service requirements?
A
Yes, you should go by what the owner's manual recommends for normal use. And, yes, this is a common practice, and I hate to admit that. When I was a customer relations manager, I had a service manager who would [bate people into buying the fluid changes] by showing new fluid versus used fluid. She made more than I did just in flush commissions, but had the worst customer satisfaction surveys. I have always stuck to the manufacturer recommendations, and my Escape has over 310,000 miles on it. Less than five percent of drivers operate their cars under conditions that would be deemed "severe." The ones who do are usually taxi or pizza-delivery drivers, or those who frequently take their SUV or truck off-road.
Q
What's the single best piece of advice you'd offer to a friend about servicing his car at the dealer?
A
A dealer won't come right out and say it, but if you have your regular service work done at the dealer... (because warranty work pays the dealer a lot less than service work), your value to the dealership increases. Here's an example: Suppose your vehicle goes out of warranty and a week later you have a catastrophic failure. If you have shown loyalty to the dealership by using them for regular service work, they will be more inclined to help you—as opposed to the person who buys a car there and takes it somewhere else for regular service, and only brings it in for warranty work.
Q
So it's about building a relationship with the dealer?
A
Yes. You need to know that dealers make very little on car sales. And warranty service doesn't pay as much as regular maintenance. But if they see that record that you've been loyal to them, they'll likely be loyal to you.
Q
What's a sign that a dealership doesn't value that relationship?
A
Constant turnover at the service desk. You should get the name of the person at the desk. You should ask for him or her. If that person's different every time, it's not a good sign. Good auto service work starts with a relationship between the advisor and the customer, and that cannot be obtained when the customer sees a new advisor every time he comes in. I always knew the person's car, I pulled up its history, and that's something people appreciate. But if that person is new or is always changing, they don't know you or your car — stuff gets missed, and that's typically not good for you or your car.
Q
How come a dealer might charge you 30 percent more for a part than you can find it for at AutoZone?
A
It's one of the hang-ups I've always had about domestic automakers. You can often buy their parts cheaper at the auto parts store than you can at the dealership parts counter. And the dealer knows this, but he can't do anything about it. The problem is that even though that's true, the dealer doesn't want to install a part that he didn't source, because if it fails, how does he warranty it?
Q
So what do you do as the customer?
A
There's not a lot you can do. They can install the part if you went out and bought it, but most won't.
Q
Speaking of AutoZone, you can take your car there to have them read what a Check Engine light means. How accurate will that reading be?
A
Check Engine lights are big moneymakers for dealers and also the bane of a service manager's existence. Anyone can use a code reader. But what does the code mean? For every code there need to be additional diagnostics. I've had customers come in and tell me to swap some part, because they're sure it's the problem. But all that is is a really expensive guess. They might be right 10 to 20 percent of the time, close 20 percent of the time, and dead wrong 60 percent of the time. I had a customer go through six oxygen sensors when all it was was a shorted wire.
Q
What's the smartest thing you can buy from the dealer?
A
A brand-name extended service contract. So if you're buying a Ford, get a Ford contract. If it's a Toyota, buy the Toyota contract. The opposite is also true. Never buy the extended service contract that's generically offered through the dealer but isn't backed by the brand of car they sell.
Q
How come?
A
Because the people who fulfill the generic contracts are paid by how little service they have to do. So they fight the dealer on every penny. They'll want to see the entire labor record on the car. They won't want to pay for parts. They'll fight on the cost of the labor. In the end, the customer is going to have to eat some of that cost, even though the contract supposedly covers the car.
Q
What's a good reason to take your car to the dealer for routine maintenance, rather than to the guy with two bays and a private shop?
A
Let's use Ford as an example. If you own a Ford vehicle, the Ford dealership will have Ford-trained technicians who work on Ford vehicles 95 to 100 percent of the time. During that time they will use Ford resources and Ford training to repair your vehicle correctly, and (ideally) they take Ford classes and attend Ford schools to keep up on their knowledge. With the other guy, it's a tossup—he may work on two Fords one week and not see another for a month. Also, on regular maintenance it can sometimes be cheaper, not more expensive. To get an oil change and tire rotation where I live, the Ford dealer is $38.95 plus tax, and Sears wants $75.
Why Your Auto Spying on you?
Most navigation systems are separate from a car's computers and cannot track your location. Nav systems rely on the Global Positioning System, which is a one-way data stream to the car. Your car may know where it is, but nobody can track it via the GPS link, and no location data is stored in the EDR.
But everything changes when you add a cellular connection. Cars equipped with telematics systems such as OnStar or Hyundai Blue Link have two-way links to service providers that relay GPS data. The operators of these services do, indeed, have the ability to see where you are, how fast you're going, and what state your car is in mechanically. They can also track and remotely disable a stolen vehicle. The Nissan Leaf uses a similar two-way connection to regularly send data on usage and location to Nissan, which the company uses for future electric vehicle development. But these services aren't supposed to work without driver permission. The car can initiate a call in an emergency situation, such as when an airbag is deployed, but otherwise the driver must authorize an external connection to the vehicle.
Companies have been caught snooping, though. OnStar found itself in the midst of a public uproar last September when it quietly changed contract terminology and started tracking customers with the intent of selling information about their driving habits. OnStar reversed the policy under pressure from consumers and Congress. Recently, insurance companies Progressive and State Farm have begun testing tracking systems, which policyholders plug into their OBD-II port. The systems record data on driving habits, and in exchange customers can potentially get lower insurance premiums, but any data collected belongs to the insurer (including any crash data).
A modern car knows where you are, is constantly tracking your driving habits, and may even be able to call for help if you crash. It's revolutionary, potentially lifesaving—and just a bit creepy. Most of a vehicle's computers are scattered around the car and carry out mundane tasks—operating the engine and transmission, windows, seats, and the radio—and these computers don't have data-storage capability (see How it Works: The Computer Inside Your Car, for a detailed tour). However, the airbag-deployment controller is a bit different. It contains a component called the event data recorder (EDR), which monitors the vehicle's network of sensors for signs of a crash and stores a few seconds of the data stream, dumping and refreshing the information constantly. The type of information collected in the EDR varies among manufacturers, but it generally includes throttle and brake-pedal position, steering angle, yaw rate (the vehicle's rotational velocity), speed, and impact-sensor data. This information is saved permanently following an airbag deployment and can be accessed through the OBD-II port by a technician using specialized equipment.
EDRs have been used since the 1990s and have recently been standardized by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)—EDRs will be required equipment on all cars beginning in 2013, with the aim of making their data easier to obtain for crash investigations. Lawyers have used this data in court cases to demonstrate driver behavior during an accident. In a Pennsylvania lawsuit related to the Toyota Prius unintended-acceleration controversy of 2009 and 2010, a team of Toyota engineers and NHTSA officials accessed the EDR of the car in question, showing that the driver was depressing the gas pedal instead of the brake, as he'd claimed.
Feb 28, 2012
Easy Auto Repair DIY
With a few tools and a little know how, you can save yourself some money by repairing small damages yourself.
Unsightly Dents
If your accident has not broken the finish and has damaged a larger body panel, you may be able to pull the dent out. Dump a bucket of soapy water over the dent and stick your household plunger over the area. The water should help create a good seal and you may be able to pull the panel back into shape. The soap will allow you to slide the plunger down the panel to break the suction.
If your dent is in a small area near a crease in the vehicle, you can place a small block of wood at the tip of the dent and gently tap the wood with a mallet to force the misplaced metal back into its original shape. Tapping gently around the edges of the dent may help pop the metal back into shape. Use care not to break the finish, chipped paint exposes bare metal which will rust.
Scratches, Scrapes and Stone Chips
Most body shops will sell you a bottle of touch up paint. They will also ask you what you are repairing and offer to fix it for a large fee. Kindly decline, and request just a bottle of touch up paint. They will need access to you vehicle to get the manufacturer's paint code. This is most often found in the glove box or the door jam. If your vehicle has been painted a different hue than its original paint color, the auto body technician can use an educated guess to mix your paint to match the rest of the finish closely.
You will need a fine grit sand paper, a bucket of soapy water, some wax and buffing cloths in addition to your bottle of paint. Wash the scraped area well with soapy water, paying special attention to any bugs or tar in the area. Wet your fine grit sand paper and carefully sand the edges of the scrape or stone chip, making sure to keep your sand paper wet. Dry the area well and leave it sit for at least ten minutes to make sure it dries completely. Then, shake the bottle of touch up paint for at least two minutes. Brush on a light coat of paint over the damaged area. You can always apply a second coat after the first coat dries. Allow the paint to cure overnight then use a rubbing compound followed by a coat of wax to protect your finish
Paint repairs fare the best when done on a sunny day with low humidity. If this is not possible in your area, perform the repairs inside a heated building with a dehumidifier running. You can also use heat lamps or a hair dryer on its lowest setting to help cure the paint.
Everyone has done it. You back into a pole, rear end a stray shopping cart or drop a heavy object on the trunk lid. The result is an ugly dent or a scraped finish. Turning in small damage claims to your insurance can be costly and if you have gotten an auto body repair estimate, you know that parts and labor can be expensive to pay out of pocket. There is another option though, you can fix it yourself. That's right. Armed with a plunger, a bottle of touch up paint and a few supplies, the average do-it-yourselfer can repair small dents and scratches. Here's how.
Unsightly Dents
If your accident has not broken the finish and has damaged a larger body panel, you may be able to pull the dent out. Dump a bucket of soapy water over the dent and stick your household plunger over the area. The water should help create a good seal and you may be able to pull the panel back into shape. The soap will allow you to slide the plunger down the panel to break the suction.
If your dent is in a small area near a crease in the vehicle, you can place a small block of wood at the tip of the dent and gently tap the wood with a mallet to force the misplaced metal back into its original shape. Tapping gently around the edges of the dent may help pop the metal back into shape. Use care not to break the finish, chipped paint exposes bare metal which will rust.
Scratches, Scrapes and Stone Chips
Most body shops will sell you a bottle of touch up paint. They will also ask you what you are repairing and offer to fix it for a large fee. Kindly decline, and request just a bottle of touch up paint. They will need access to you vehicle to get the manufacturer's paint code. This is most often found in the glove box or the door jam. If your vehicle has been painted a different hue than its original paint color, the auto body technician can use an educated guess to mix your paint to match the rest of the finish closely.
You will need a fine grit sand paper, a bucket of soapy water, some wax and buffing cloths in addition to your bottle of paint. Wash the scraped area well with soapy water, paying special attention to any bugs or tar in the area. Wet your fine grit sand paper and carefully sand the edges of the scrape or stone chip, making sure to keep your sand paper wet. Dry the area well and leave it sit for at least ten minutes to make sure it dries completely. Then, shake the bottle of touch up paint for at least two minutes. Brush on a light coat of paint over the damaged area. You can always apply a second coat after the first coat dries. Allow the paint to cure overnight then use a rubbing compound followed by a coat of wax to protect your finish
Paint repairs fare the best when done on a sunny day with low humidity. If this is not possible in your area, perform the repairs inside a heated building with a dehumidifier running. You can also use heat lamps or a hair dryer on its lowest setting to help cure the paint.
Everyone has done it. You back into a pole, rear end a stray shopping cart or drop a heavy object on the trunk lid. The result is an ugly dent or a scraped finish. Turning in small damage claims to your insurance can be costly and if you have gotten an auto body repair estimate, you know that parts and labor can be expensive to pay out of pocket. There is another option though, you can fix it yourself. That's right. Armed with a plunger, a bottle of touch up paint and a few supplies, the average do-it-yourselfer can repair small dents and scratches. Here's how.
Auto Repair-Tools Needed
Some are intimidated by working on a car, but the truth is most maintenance can be simply and easily performed with a relatively basic set of tools and bit of determination. The tools on this list will allow you to perform 90% of tasks associated with do-it-yourself auto maintenance and repair:
Socket set
A decent socket set will save you countless hours of struggle and frustration. You don't have to break the bank, but be sure to get a standard set for your American car and a metric set for your foreign car.
Box wrench set
Box wrenches are the ones with a closed end and an open end. They're incredibly handy for bolts that can't be reached easily with a socket.
Screwdriver set
You'll need screwdrivers to remove all kinds of parts like a fan cowling, mud flap, or door panel. Be sure to get a set with both slotted and Philip's head variations.
Oil filter wrench
This is easy to overlook, but changing your own oil is one of the best ways to save money maintaining your car, and doing it without an oil filter wrench is ridiculously difficult.
Jack and jackstands
When you're under 2 tons of steel changing the oil, having a hydraulic jack to lift it and four solid jack stands holding it securely in place makes all the difference.
Mini crowbar and mini sledge
You'll be surprised how often you need a crowbar to leverage a pulley while you change a belt, or how often that sledge will help you loosen a rusted bolt.
Torque wrench
There are bolts on your car that need to be tightened to a certain level of torque. A torque wrench, which when set properly, literally breaks away at the right torque. Besides, you'll look cool using it.
Wire brush, utility knife, and pressure gauge
These are for small maintenance tasks such as cleaning your battery terminals, cutting hoses, and checking tire pressure regularly.
Owning your own car is a proud American tradition that has become a rite of passage for men and women alike. Of course, maintaining and repairing your own car is another important part of that same rite of passage and many even find deep satisfaction - as well as even deeper savings - by learning to do their own maintenance and repairs.
Socket set
A decent socket set will save you countless hours of struggle and frustration. You don't have to break the bank, but be sure to get a standard set for your American car and a metric set for your foreign car.
Box wrench set
Box wrenches are the ones with a closed end and an open end. They're incredibly handy for bolts that can't be reached easily with a socket.
Screwdriver set
You'll need screwdrivers to remove all kinds of parts like a fan cowling, mud flap, or door panel. Be sure to get a set with both slotted and Philip's head variations.
Oil filter wrench
This is easy to overlook, but changing your own oil is one of the best ways to save money maintaining your car, and doing it without an oil filter wrench is ridiculously difficult.
Jack and jackstands
When you're under 2 tons of steel changing the oil, having a hydraulic jack to lift it and four solid jack stands holding it securely in place makes all the difference.
Mini crowbar and mini sledge
You'll be surprised how often you need a crowbar to leverage a pulley while you change a belt, or how often that sledge will help you loosen a rusted bolt.
Torque wrench
There are bolts on your car that need to be tightened to a certain level of torque. A torque wrench, which when set properly, literally breaks away at the right torque. Besides, you'll look cool using it.
Wire brush, utility knife, and pressure gauge
These are for small maintenance tasks such as cleaning your battery terminals, cutting hoses, and checking tire pressure regularly.
Owning your own car is a proud American tradition that has become a rite of passage for men and women alike. Of course, maintaining and repairing your own car is another important part of that same rite of passage and many even find deep satisfaction - as well as even deeper savings - by learning to do their own maintenance and repairs.
Auto Repair-Cheap DIY
A few other good tools to have include a creeper, a multi meter, and a tension socket wrench. All are relatively inexpensive, but can assist you in saving big money over bringing your car to the shop.
By stocking your garage with just a few important and relatively inexpensive tools, you will be able to save lots of money by performing basic car repair on your own.
The first most basic tools needed for car repair can be found in a good mechanics tool set. These days, you can find a good tool set at a big box store for under $100. Or you can choose to go with a bit more expensive set and get a lifetime replacement guarantee. If any tool in the set ever breaks or rusts beyond use, simply bring it into the store for a no questions asked exchange. Most good mechanics tool sets will include a full range of metric and standard sockets and open-ended wrenches. Most also include an interchangeable screwdriver with several attachments for different uses. More advanced sets may include a spark plug socket as well as several socket extensions to get to hard to reach nuts or bolts. A good mechanics tools set is essential to perform the most basic car repair projects.
We all know cars need regular oil changes every three thousand mile or three months. So it only makes good sense to purchase a few oil change essentials to complete the task on your own. First off, a drain pan is essential to drain the oil under most cars. The height of some trucks will allow you to get away with a 5 gallon bucket, but the drip pan is still good because it has a spout to allow for proper disposal of the used oil. If you've ever changed your own oil, chances are you know how hard it can be to unscrew the oil filter from it mount. Some more expensive oil filter models have a nice rubber grip that allows for easy turning, but for how inexpensive they are, a cheap oil filter wrench is a great tool to have on hand. Last but not least, you'll want to have a funnel on hand to ensure your oil goes where it's supposed to. One 99-cent funnel can save you from having to buy a whole new quart of oil because you spilled half of it on the engine.
Car repair, there has been a huge trend of "do it yourself" in the last decade, and with good reason. When you do something for yourself you accomplish three goals. You earn the satisfaction of doing something on your own, you save money compared to using a professional, and you have more quality control over the job to ensure its done properly. Weather its home repair, simple legal work or car repair; doing it yourself usually makes sense. To determine if your DIY project is right for you, take the amount of money you plan to save and compare it to your normal hourly rate at your job. If it's cheaper to have a pro do it, then it usually makes sense to go ahead and let them do it. But if you determine that do it yourself car repair is right for you, you'll want to stock your garage with a few basic tools to aide you in your projects.
By stocking your garage with just a few important and relatively inexpensive tools, you will be able to save lots of money by performing basic car repair on your own.
The first most basic tools needed for car repair can be found in a good mechanics tool set. These days, you can find a good tool set at a big box store for under $100. Or you can choose to go with a bit more expensive set and get a lifetime replacement guarantee. If any tool in the set ever breaks or rusts beyond use, simply bring it into the store for a no questions asked exchange. Most good mechanics tool sets will include a full range of metric and standard sockets and open-ended wrenches. Most also include an interchangeable screwdriver with several attachments for different uses. More advanced sets may include a spark plug socket as well as several socket extensions to get to hard to reach nuts or bolts. A good mechanics tools set is essential to perform the most basic car repair projects.
We all know cars need regular oil changes every three thousand mile or three months. So it only makes good sense to purchase a few oil change essentials to complete the task on your own. First off, a drain pan is essential to drain the oil under most cars. The height of some trucks will allow you to get away with a 5 gallon bucket, but the drip pan is still good because it has a spout to allow for proper disposal of the used oil. If you've ever changed your own oil, chances are you know how hard it can be to unscrew the oil filter from it mount. Some more expensive oil filter models have a nice rubber grip that allows for easy turning, but for how inexpensive they are, a cheap oil filter wrench is a great tool to have on hand. Last but not least, you'll want to have a funnel on hand to ensure your oil goes where it's supposed to. One 99-cent funnel can save you from having to buy a whole new quart of oil because you spilled half of it on the engine.
Car repair, there has been a huge trend of "do it yourself" in the last decade, and with good reason. When you do something for yourself you accomplish three goals. You earn the satisfaction of doing something on your own, you save money compared to using a professional, and you have more quality control over the job to ensure its done properly. Weather its home repair, simple legal work or car repair; doing it yourself usually makes sense. To determine if your DIY project is right for you, take the amount of money you plan to save and compare it to your normal hourly rate at your job. If it's cheaper to have a pro do it, then it usually makes sense to go ahead and let them do it. But if you determine that do it yourself car repair is right for you, you'll want to stock your garage with a few basic tools to aide you in your projects.
When Not To DIY Auto Repair
Always evaluate your reason for wanting to do the car repair on your own. Is it because you are afraid of the cost? Then understand that most repairs end up costing more when handled by someone with no experience. If it is to save time, take a little extra time to shop for a mechanic's shop that has a reputation for efficiency. In most situations, you will be better off having a professional service your vehicle rather than doing it yourself.
No Manufacturer's Instructions
While advice for repairs isn't likely to be found in the owner's manual, you can find the vehicle's manual for repairs online. If this does not clearly show you how to fix the problem, then you need to find someone who has the experience and know-how to fix it right. Without the proper instructions from the manufacturer, you risk an improper fix and sacrificing the integrity and safety of your vehicle.
You Have a Young Vehicle
If your vehicle is less than 10 years old, you can expect the computer system to be quite advanced. Sometimes a simple fix, such as changing the brake pads, can affect other aspects of the vehicle because of the way the computer system is integrated into the main assembly of the car. Hiring a professional ensures that you avoid these potentially costly mistakes.
Electronic Fuel Injection
Vehicles with electronic fuel injection need to be repaired by a professional. If you are unsure about your vehicle's fuel injection status, look in the owner's manual. Doing this type of car repair on your own can easily misalign the vehicle's timing, thus leading to costly computer repair down the road.
You Don't Have the Right Tools
Some types of car repair require highly specialized tools. Your hammer and monkey wrench may not be sufficient for advanced repairs. If you don't have the tools you need for the job, you are far better off taking it the mechanic, unless you want to invest in costly tools you may never use again. The price of these types of specialized tools can often outweigh the cost of having the repairs done at a shop.
You Aren't Sure What's Wrong
Never attempt to fix your vehicle on your own unless you are certain of what the problem is in the first place. Engines can be tricky, and fixing the wrong thing simply wastes your time and money. You may be able to do the job yourself after having a diagnostic test run at the mechanic's shop, but make sure you know exactly what needs to be done before attempting to perform repairs on your own vehicle.
You Have No Experience
It takes a mechanic many years of schooling to become skilled in his craft. Simply being "handy" is not sufficient. Unless a job is very simple, you are better off letting a professional handle it than doing it on your own with no experience.
Many vehicle owners will attempt to do their own car repair in order to save time and money. However, there are situations when you need expert help. If your vehicle falls into one of the following categories, you need to take it to an experienced shop when it needs to be fixed.
No Manufacturer's Instructions
While advice for repairs isn't likely to be found in the owner's manual, you can find the vehicle's manual for repairs online. If this does not clearly show you how to fix the problem, then you need to find someone who has the experience and know-how to fix it right. Without the proper instructions from the manufacturer, you risk an improper fix and sacrificing the integrity and safety of your vehicle.
You Have a Young Vehicle
If your vehicle is less than 10 years old, you can expect the computer system to be quite advanced. Sometimes a simple fix, such as changing the brake pads, can affect other aspects of the vehicle because of the way the computer system is integrated into the main assembly of the car. Hiring a professional ensures that you avoid these potentially costly mistakes.
Electronic Fuel Injection
Vehicles with electronic fuel injection need to be repaired by a professional. If you are unsure about your vehicle's fuel injection status, look in the owner's manual. Doing this type of car repair on your own can easily misalign the vehicle's timing, thus leading to costly computer repair down the road.
You Don't Have the Right Tools
Some types of car repair require highly specialized tools. Your hammer and monkey wrench may not be sufficient for advanced repairs. If you don't have the tools you need for the job, you are far better off taking it the mechanic, unless you want to invest in costly tools you may never use again. The price of these types of specialized tools can often outweigh the cost of having the repairs done at a shop.
You Aren't Sure What's Wrong
Never attempt to fix your vehicle on your own unless you are certain of what the problem is in the first place. Engines can be tricky, and fixing the wrong thing simply wastes your time and money. You may be able to do the job yourself after having a diagnostic test run at the mechanic's shop, but make sure you know exactly what needs to be done before attempting to perform repairs on your own vehicle.
You Have No Experience
It takes a mechanic many years of schooling to become skilled in his craft. Simply being "handy" is not sufficient. Unless a job is very simple, you are better off letting a professional handle it than doing it on your own with no experience.
Many vehicle owners will attempt to do their own car repair in order to save time and money. However, there are situations when you need expert help. If your vehicle falls into one of the following categories, you need to take it to an experienced shop when it needs to be fixed.
Cheap Auto Repair DIY
Car repair tools are something to consider - they can either provide a solution or, if used improperly, or in the case of Torque related tools, if not used at all, can make the car problem worse. You may not realize it but you may already own torque related tools. Have you ever wondered why the 10mm wrench is shorter than a 14mm wrench? Why does the ¼" drive ratchet typically only have sockets up to about 15mm? There is a good reason for both. If you use a 10mm wrench to tighten down a 10mm fastener, and aren't over "torquing", you are going to get the proper torque.
If you used a wrench that is twice as long to do the same thing your chances of over torquing, breaking or compromising the fastener are vastly increased. Using a ¼" drive ratchet to tighten a 10mm fastener is much safer than using a ½" drive ratchet to tighten the same 10mm fastener. This is a simple matter of understanding the forces of leverage and torque, the longer the tool the more leverage you get and the easier the torque is applied. As a rule of thumb, use a ¼" drive ratchet to tighten fasters if the bits are available. Generally speaking there is no reason to use a larger ratchet to tighten the fasteners below 15mm.
In some cases when torquing a fastener, whether it is a nut or a bolt, it is very important to achieve a level of accuracy. If you are attempting to repair your car yourself there are some basic techniques that will save you both time and, in the long run, money. By understanding and applying some basic car repair techniques the average person is going to increase their chance at performing a successful car repair.
There is another car repair tool that will get you the proper torque every time; provided the tool works properly. It's the torque wrench. What does a mechanic have that you don't? Well, for the most part, experience. Gaining a feel for how tight a bolt needs to be is the first step to getting the proper torque. This is simple to practice, and it is easily gauged with a torque wrench. There are certain instances that using a torque wrench is incredibly important. Rotating parts is one of them. You don't want a spinning part to loosen the nuts or bolts that hold it in place. So torque your axle nuts and flywheel bolts. Any time there is a gasket or a nut or bolt that is a "Torque to Yield" it is very important to get out that torque wrench to ensure proper installation and operation.
Make sure you replace a the bolt or nut if it is recommended by a Car repair manual. This is because that bolt or nut has to be, and has been, torqued to yield. This means that the fastener is actually getting stretched to it's proper torque. It also means that when that particular bolt/nut is removed you will not be able to reassemble using that previously torqued bolt and achieve the same required torque that assures both fit and function. Now when we are talking torque, let's consider some other factors. When the car repair manual says to oil the bolt before torquing they are further modifying the manner in which that bolt gets torqued. The friction is reduced from the addition of the oil and this means that more force is now being applied to the bolt for that set torque value. Now let's think about a dry bolt at the same torque - it is not going to get turned enough to do what the manufacturer intended to do at that torque. What is even worse is if there is a bunch of dirt, rust or any contaminants on the threads. So now that there is a bunch of dirt on the threads, you are increasing the friction and ultimately under-torquing your bolt. Do that on a new hub bearing assembly and you are going to have a separated wheel bearing that has too much play.
To get a better understanding of the importance of following torquing guidelines let's consider a situation like replacing a gasket that holds oil or coolant - a good example is a valve cover gasket; the factory wants you to apply 10 foot pounds of torque to "most" valve cover gaskets. What happens if you over-torque? You squish the gasket too much and that creates the potential for oil to escape, this compromises the gasket and the required seal.
Here are a couple of charts to give you an idea of the relative torque values that are typically applied to different sizes of bolts. These are guidelines only and this information has not been verified.
Bolt Assembly Torque (ft-lb)
Values are based on the use of lubricated threads
bolt size Grade 8.8 Grade 10 Aluminum
M6 5 10 4
M7 9 14 7
M8 17 25 14
M10 33 50 25
M12 60 85 40
M14 90 133 65
M16 140 200 100
M18 200 285 135
The above chart is for lubricated threads and only provides typical torque values - This chart is not to be followed for any torque to yield bolts or nuts and does not provide proper torque values for a bolt or nut that is holding a gasket surface. Gaskets are made of different materials and the manual pertaining to the exact application is the only source that should be used in determining the proper torque for these gaskets.
Note: size: 10mm does not refer to the bolt head it refers to the diameter of the shaft. Typical 10mm bolts have a 13mm or 14mm heads.
The following chart shows slightly different torque values, and is not based on lubricated threads. M8x1.25 is an 8mm diameter with a 1.25 thread pitch - the lower the number the finer the threads.
Hex head Cap Screw
bolt size Grade 8.8
M4 x 0.7 1.65
M5 x 0.8 4.13
M6 x 1.0 7.1
M7 x 1.0 12.0
M8 x 1.0 18.0
M8 x 1.25 17.0
M10 x 1.0 39.0
M10 x 1.25 36.0
M10 x 1.5 34.0
M12 x 1.25 65.0
M12 x 1.5 63.0
M12 x 1.75 59.0
M14 x 1.5 102.0
M14 x 2 94.0
Anther consideration is that fact that torque specification depends on the type of material used - 8.8 grade steel is the most common, but stainless steel fasteners are a stronger alternative, whereas, aluminum is a much softer metal and will require a different torque. Always check the manufacture's manual for proper torque specs. No chart that is provided in this document has been validated for accuracy. Most factory service manuals will show a torque specification chart simply based off the size of fastener, however this should only be referred to if the specific torque application is not provided.
After reading this you should feel a little more confident and a little more worried. Continue to do your homework and take on the car repair jobs within your means. Ultimately, it is the experience that is required and some failures can be great learning experience so practice first and take your time.
If you used a wrench that is twice as long to do the same thing your chances of over torquing, breaking or compromising the fastener are vastly increased. Using a ¼" drive ratchet to tighten a 10mm fastener is much safer than using a ½" drive ratchet to tighten the same 10mm fastener. This is a simple matter of understanding the forces of leverage and torque, the longer the tool the more leverage you get and the easier the torque is applied. As a rule of thumb, use a ¼" drive ratchet to tighten fasters if the bits are available. Generally speaking there is no reason to use a larger ratchet to tighten the fasteners below 15mm.
In some cases when torquing a fastener, whether it is a nut or a bolt, it is very important to achieve a level of accuracy. If you are attempting to repair your car yourself there are some basic techniques that will save you both time and, in the long run, money. By understanding and applying some basic car repair techniques the average person is going to increase their chance at performing a successful car repair.
There is another car repair tool that will get you the proper torque every time; provided the tool works properly. It's the torque wrench. What does a mechanic have that you don't? Well, for the most part, experience. Gaining a feel for how tight a bolt needs to be is the first step to getting the proper torque. This is simple to practice, and it is easily gauged with a torque wrench. There are certain instances that using a torque wrench is incredibly important. Rotating parts is one of them. You don't want a spinning part to loosen the nuts or bolts that hold it in place. So torque your axle nuts and flywheel bolts. Any time there is a gasket or a nut or bolt that is a "Torque to Yield" it is very important to get out that torque wrench to ensure proper installation and operation.
Make sure you replace a the bolt or nut if it is recommended by a Car repair manual. This is because that bolt or nut has to be, and has been, torqued to yield. This means that the fastener is actually getting stretched to it's proper torque. It also means that when that particular bolt/nut is removed you will not be able to reassemble using that previously torqued bolt and achieve the same required torque that assures both fit and function. Now when we are talking torque, let's consider some other factors. When the car repair manual says to oil the bolt before torquing they are further modifying the manner in which that bolt gets torqued. The friction is reduced from the addition of the oil and this means that more force is now being applied to the bolt for that set torque value. Now let's think about a dry bolt at the same torque - it is not going to get turned enough to do what the manufacturer intended to do at that torque. What is even worse is if there is a bunch of dirt, rust or any contaminants on the threads. So now that there is a bunch of dirt on the threads, you are increasing the friction and ultimately under-torquing your bolt. Do that on a new hub bearing assembly and you are going to have a separated wheel bearing that has too much play.
To get a better understanding of the importance of following torquing guidelines let's consider a situation like replacing a gasket that holds oil or coolant - a good example is a valve cover gasket; the factory wants you to apply 10 foot pounds of torque to "most" valve cover gaskets. What happens if you over-torque? You squish the gasket too much and that creates the potential for oil to escape, this compromises the gasket and the required seal.
Here are a couple of charts to give you an idea of the relative torque values that are typically applied to different sizes of bolts. These are guidelines only and this information has not been verified.
Bolt Assembly Torque (ft-lb)
Values are based on the use of lubricated threads
bolt size Grade 8.8 Grade 10 Aluminum
M6 5 10 4
M7 9 14 7
M8 17 25 14
M10 33 50 25
M12 60 85 40
M14 90 133 65
M16 140 200 100
M18 200 285 135
The above chart is for lubricated threads and only provides typical torque values - This chart is not to be followed for any torque to yield bolts or nuts and does not provide proper torque values for a bolt or nut that is holding a gasket surface. Gaskets are made of different materials and the manual pertaining to the exact application is the only source that should be used in determining the proper torque for these gaskets.
Note: size: 10mm does not refer to the bolt head it refers to the diameter of the shaft. Typical 10mm bolts have a 13mm or 14mm heads.
The following chart shows slightly different torque values, and is not based on lubricated threads. M8x1.25 is an 8mm diameter with a 1.25 thread pitch - the lower the number the finer the threads.
Hex head Cap Screw
bolt size Grade 8.8
M4 x 0.7 1.65
M5 x 0.8 4.13
M6 x 1.0 7.1
M7 x 1.0 12.0
M8 x 1.0 18.0
M8 x 1.25 17.0
M10 x 1.0 39.0
M10 x 1.25 36.0
M10 x 1.5 34.0
M12 x 1.25 65.0
M12 x 1.5 63.0
M12 x 1.75 59.0
M14 x 1.5 102.0
M14 x 2 94.0
Anther consideration is that fact that torque specification depends on the type of material used - 8.8 grade steel is the most common, but stainless steel fasteners are a stronger alternative, whereas, aluminum is a much softer metal and will require a different torque. Always check the manufacture's manual for proper torque specs. No chart that is provided in this document has been validated for accuracy. Most factory service manuals will show a torque specification chart simply based off the size of fastener, however this should only be referred to if the specific torque application is not provided.
After reading this you should feel a little more confident and a little more worried. Continue to do your homework and take on the car repair jobs within your means. Ultimately, it is the experience that is required and some failures can be great learning experience so practice first and take your time.
Feb 23, 2012
Making Your Own Electric Car, DIY Style
Converting your vehicle to a clean fuel type, moving away from the noise and pollution of traditional petrol and diesel motors is something we have all thought about at some point. Many of us would consider an electric conversion or hydrogen tank with the on-going and ever increasing cost of fuelling up or cars, vans and trucks.
It would make sense to then look at a more affordable alternative source of energy, which might also be more beneficial to our environment and the health of those around us. Buying an electric car brand new is not something a lot of people might consider, the costs of a new specialist vehicle tend to put a lot of users off.
Most mechanics would be unskilled in maintaining and servicing your vehicle, it requires both an electrician and someone with good knowledge of the electrical side as well as a mechanic for the normal automotive service. You might be lucky to find someone who possesses both skills, but the best way might be to learn yourself.
Obtaining a manual which can guide you through the process of building, installing and maintaining the new internals of the electric hybrid is a good place to start. If you are relatively DIY savvy this is probably easier than it actually sounds.
Knowing which parts need to be replaced might give you an indicator as to the size of the job in hand, matched with your ability will decide then the length of said job and ultimately you could know if you are capable of undertaking this job.
Electric vehicles need to have replaced the actual engine with a motor; this is the biggest part of the job. Although the biggest it is not most difficult, detaching all of the internal pipes, cables, connectors and adapters which transport the fuel under the hood and the exhaust will be more fiddly.
The actual parts tend to be relatively priced, you can pick up over the Internet and have them delivered directly to your home or place of work. If you don't think you are capable of installing an electrical conversion after your research, I would consult a specialist or talk to someone who has done this conversion.
My decision would be based on time; it will take more than a few weekends to complete this conversion. But it is a fantastic opportunity and one which could be used to bond with family members if involved in the conversion, more hands makes short work after all.
It would make sense to then look at a more affordable alternative source of energy, which might also be more beneficial to our environment and the health of those around us. Buying an electric car brand new is not something a lot of people might consider, the costs of a new specialist vehicle tend to put a lot of users off.
Most mechanics would be unskilled in maintaining and servicing your vehicle, it requires both an electrician and someone with good knowledge of the electrical side as well as a mechanic for the normal automotive service. You might be lucky to find someone who possesses both skills, but the best way might be to learn yourself.
Obtaining a manual which can guide you through the process of building, installing and maintaining the new internals of the electric hybrid is a good place to start. If you are relatively DIY savvy this is probably easier than it actually sounds.
Knowing which parts need to be replaced might give you an indicator as to the size of the job in hand, matched with your ability will decide then the length of said job and ultimately you could know if you are capable of undertaking this job.
Electric vehicles need to have replaced the actual engine with a motor; this is the biggest part of the job. Although the biggest it is not most difficult, detaching all of the internal pipes, cables, connectors and adapters which transport the fuel under the hood and the exhaust will be more fiddly.
The actual parts tend to be relatively priced, you can pick up over the Internet and have them delivered directly to your home or place of work. If you don't think you are capable of installing an electrical conversion after your research, I would consult a specialist or talk to someone who has done this conversion.
My decision would be based on time; it will take more than a few weekends to complete this conversion. But it is a fantastic opportunity and one which could be used to bond with family members if involved in the conversion, more hands makes short work after all.
Beginner's Guide to Car Audio Installation - DIY
Speaker Positioning
Speaker installation is very critical for performance. Whether you spent $1000 or $10,000 on a set of speakers, if they are not properly installed, they would not sound as they should. Even though it may seem that the best position for most speakers are in the stock housing's that came with the car e.g. on the door panel near your feet, this is just not so. You would see why such positions are still used however along with alternative solutions such as center channels for 5.1 dolby, LCD screen, in-dash DVD players. There are many factors that need to be considered in placing the speakers in the correct position.
Distance
The first thing to consider is distance. If the left speaker is only a couple feet away from your ears, while the right speaker is several feet away from you, then the sound will arrive at different times giving you poor sound. Since the left speaker is closer, it sounds louder. The best solution is to figure out a location where the difference between the distance of the right speaker to your ears and left speaker (also known as path length difference), are minimal. This is where kick panels become the preferred location.
Multiple Speaker Placement
If you have a system with two or more speakers per side, you need to try out different locations to obtain the best possible sound in your car. If you have a 2-way system with a tweeter and sub per side. The subs are mounted in the stock location at the bottom of the door. The tweeters are mounted high up on the front corner of the door panel. From the driver's seat, you can see that there are 4 speakers all aimed towards different orientations and all at a different distance to your ears. This interaction of sound waves at different frequencies arriving at your ears at different times seldom sounds good. The best thing to do is to position the woofer and tweeter on each side as close as possible to each other. This is also why kick panels are used so much these days. Professional installers do use some tricks such as inverting the tweeters' polarity when mounted for example on top of the dash while the woofers are low. Achieving good sound with unconventional mounting schemes is very, very hard and is only achieved after plenty of time has been spent trying different configurations.
Aiming
Our ears can distinguish the direction of sound more easily at higher frequencies. This means that aiming the mids, and most importantly, tweeters towards your ears play a critical role in sound imaging. Midbases are not so critical, but should be also aimed towards the listener's ears if possible. To figure out the best aiming angle involves many hours -even days- of work. To start, try to aim the speakers towards the center of the car. Play around with different angles until you obtain the best sounding position. Subwoofers should be mounted up front for best sound. Since this is not possible in most cars, mounting subs in the back is not such a bad thing, since most people can't distinguish where bass comes from. If you have good midbases going down to 60 Hz or less and subs picking up the signal below 60 Hz, then the bass will seem to come from the front.
Enclosures
Subwoofers need a properly designed enclosure to give top performance. Midbases and mids also do sound much better if they are installed in enclosures. The best sounding and easier to build enclosure type for midbases and mids is sealed.
Mounting Speakers
If you are using speakers that fit into the stock location, make sure there are no spaces or holes. Sometimes building a wood or fiberglass baffle helps reduce holes and gives you much better sound. Always be careful when using power tools around speakers. Holes in speakers usually are not covered by the warranty. For unconventional speaker locations, sometimes metal has to be cut. If you have the resources, plasma cutters and pneumatics tools work great. For most of us that do not have these tools, a pair of metal snips (left and right cut) will do the job.
Take your time to plan your system and dont just buy brand and product for the sake of popularity. Sometimes the simplest system is the most effective.
Speaker installation is very critical for performance. Whether you spent $1000 or $10,000 on a set of speakers, if they are not properly installed, they would not sound as they should. Even though it may seem that the best position for most speakers are in the stock housing's that came with the car e.g. on the door panel near your feet, this is just not so. You would see why such positions are still used however along with alternative solutions such as center channels for 5.1 dolby, LCD screen, in-dash DVD players. There are many factors that need to be considered in placing the speakers in the correct position.
Distance
The first thing to consider is distance. If the left speaker is only a couple feet away from your ears, while the right speaker is several feet away from you, then the sound will arrive at different times giving you poor sound. Since the left speaker is closer, it sounds louder. The best solution is to figure out a location where the difference between the distance of the right speaker to your ears and left speaker (also known as path length difference), are minimal. This is where kick panels become the preferred location.
Multiple Speaker Placement
If you have a system with two or more speakers per side, you need to try out different locations to obtain the best possible sound in your car. If you have a 2-way system with a tweeter and sub per side. The subs are mounted in the stock location at the bottom of the door. The tweeters are mounted high up on the front corner of the door panel. From the driver's seat, you can see that there are 4 speakers all aimed towards different orientations and all at a different distance to your ears. This interaction of sound waves at different frequencies arriving at your ears at different times seldom sounds good. The best thing to do is to position the woofer and tweeter on each side as close as possible to each other. This is also why kick panels are used so much these days. Professional installers do use some tricks such as inverting the tweeters' polarity when mounted for example on top of the dash while the woofers are low. Achieving good sound with unconventional mounting schemes is very, very hard and is only achieved after plenty of time has been spent trying different configurations.
Aiming
Our ears can distinguish the direction of sound more easily at higher frequencies. This means that aiming the mids, and most importantly, tweeters towards your ears play a critical role in sound imaging. Midbases are not so critical, but should be also aimed towards the listener's ears if possible. To figure out the best aiming angle involves many hours -even days- of work. To start, try to aim the speakers towards the center of the car. Play around with different angles until you obtain the best sounding position. Subwoofers should be mounted up front for best sound. Since this is not possible in most cars, mounting subs in the back is not such a bad thing, since most people can't distinguish where bass comes from. If you have good midbases going down to 60 Hz or less and subs picking up the signal below 60 Hz, then the bass will seem to come from the front.
Enclosures
Subwoofers need a properly designed enclosure to give top performance. Midbases and mids also do sound much better if they are installed in enclosures. The best sounding and easier to build enclosure type for midbases and mids is sealed.
Mounting Speakers
If you are using speakers that fit into the stock location, make sure there are no spaces or holes. Sometimes building a wood or fiberglass baffle helps reduce holes and gives you much better sound. Always be careful when using power tools around speakers. Holes in speakers usually are not covered by the warranty. For unconventional speaker locations, sometimes metal has to be cut. If you have the resources, plasma cutters and pneumatics tools work great. For most of us that do not have these tools, a pair of metal snips (left and right cut) will do the job.
Take your time to plan your system and dont just buy brand and product for the sake of popularity. Sometimes the simplest system is the most effective.
Want to add the convenience of a navigation system to your car or truck? GPS navigation systems are one of the most popular aftermarket upgrades on the market today, and installing one of these systems in your vehicle is a great way to take your driving experience up a notch. However, you may want to consider hiring a professional to install your new nav system, as these installations can be surprisingly complex. Of course, putting a portable car GPS in your vehicle can be as simple as sticking a suction cup to the windshield. But if you're considering installing an integrated, in-dash navigation system, you might want to think twice before you tackle the job yourself. Aesthetics When it comes to installing a car navigation GPS, you have to consider how it will look, as well as how it will perform. In most cases, putting in a navigation system involves creating an opening in the dash for the screen, and if not done properly, your new navigation equipment will hardly look its best. From crooked screens to jagged edges to scratched, scraped, and damaged dashes, you'd be amazed at the number of things that can go wrong when you try to put in an in-dash navigation screen all on your own. On the other hand, the installers at your area mobile electronics shop have performed hundreds of similar installations in the past. These professionals can expertly cut the hole for the screen, locating it in the optimal position for easy use, and finish the installation in a smooth, seamless way. When installed by experienced pros, aftermarket car navigation systems can look like they've been there since the day the vehicle rolled off the assembly line! Performance Of course, looks aren't everything. The whole point of installing a car GPS system is for its navigational assistance and convenience, so you'll also want to make certain it is installed properly for optimal performance. Lose wires, damaged equipment, and other common amateur mistakes can mean that the gyro, compass, speed sensor, or other parts of the system don't function correctly, disabling your GPS (sometimes permanently). At your local car electronics shop, their technicians are trained professionals with a full understanding of the best way to hook up your new navigation system. From securely soldered wires to fully functional components, they can ensure you're able to enjoy every single feature of your new car navigation GPS to its fullest. Cost Putting in your own in-dash navigation system obviously carries a lower price tag than using the professional installers at your local car audio shop. That's because you're paying just for the equipment, not for the installation labor as well. So if low cost is your primary criterion, you may want to look into do-it-yourself installation. For the best results, though, make sure you're being honest about your car electronics installation skills: If you have some technical knowledge, the correct tools, and the ability to closely follow installation diagrams, you should be able to hook up your new GPS car navigation components properly. On the other hand, if you don't have the expertise or tools, the results may not meet your expectations in terms of aesthetics or performance, so do a quick assessment of whether or not you really are equipped to handle your own navigation system installation before you start to avoid disaster down the Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6360174
The number of people that think they're brilliant car mechanics would easily fill any phone book in any city. The number who actually are good mechanics would fill about half a page. The difference between a pro mechanic and a person thinking they know how to fix a car is the difference between a Ferrari and a piece of cheese. One drives a lot better than the other. When you need car service, you get an expert.
Some very minor things can be understood easily enough, but if you go beyond changing a windscreen wiper, things can get ugly in a hurry. The days when you could do a decent job on a car with a few basic tools and an enthusiastic look on your face are long gone. Modern cars need professional care, because if they don't get it, they tend to fall to bits.
Modern cars have complex, and sometimes tricky, systems. One of the reasons the major brands have approved services rather than just any old thing is because the systems often contain proprietary parts and in some cases special design features. These things are non-standard, and you need to know how to deal with them.
The other issue is more basic. Safety isn't an optional extra. A jury-rigged transmission may sound like fun when you're a teenager, but try dealing with one when it doesn't feel like cooperating on the road, and you're in a mess. As a matter of fact you're quite likely to be a mess, if your car starts objecting to doing things while you're driving it.
Do what yourself?
The best thing to do for yourself is to pay attention to car problems. Don't get lazy about weird little sticks in the steering or try to make money making bets on whether the brakes will work. Try to figure out why you feel like you're driving a pile of broken springs every time you hit the road, and you'll track down your suspension problems.
Identify the problems and get something done about them. These jobs are way out of the range of DIY, even for good mechanics, without the sort of technical backup required to do them. Even a good wheel alignment is a bit much for good DIY people, and if you think for a moment about the possibilities of your wheels pointing to all directions of the compass, you can predict the results.
Then there's that little bundle of fun, the engine. Nothing like a nice day's work sabotaging your car, is there? This is another case where you're often not just dealing with one problem, and "fixing" one thing may actually make things worse. You could have a perfectly charging car driving some old worn-out thing into the ground, for example.
Imagine, also the benefits of a great motor in a car where everything else is falling to bits. The extra power makes things much worse, almost instantly. The wheels, out of alignment, with all that power, are more dangerous than ever.
Some motorists are good amateur mechanics, but don't kid yourself. If one thing has gone wrong, it will have affected others. If you need car repair, get a professional, and take the guesswork out of the equation before you drive.
Some very minor things can be understood easily enough, but if you go beyond changing a windscreen wiper, things can get ugly in a hurry. The days when you could do a decent job on a car with a few basic tools and an enthusiastic look on your face are long gone. Modern cars need professional care, because if they don't get it, they tend to fall to bits.
Modern cars have complex, and sometimes tricky, systems. One of the reasons the major brands have approved services rather than just any old thing is because the systems often contain proprietary parts and in some cases special design features. These things are non-standard, and you need to know how to deal with them.
The other issue is more basic. Safety isn't an optional extra. A jury-rigged transmission may sound like fun when you're a teenager, but try dealing with one when it doesn't feel like cooperating on the road, and you're in a mess. As a matter of fact you're quite likely to be a mess, if your car starts objecting to doing things while you're driving it.
Do what yourself?
The best thing to do for yourself is to pay attention to car problems. Don't get lazy about weird little sticks in the steering or try to make money making bets on whether the brakes will work. Try to figure out why you feel like you're driving a pile of broken springs every time you hit the road, and you'll track down your suspension problems.
Identify the problems and get something done about them. These jobs are way out of the range of DIY, even for good mechanics, without the sort of technical backup required to do them. Even a good wheel alignment is a bit much for good DIY people, and if you think for a moment about the possibilities of your wheels pointing to all directions of the compass, you can predict the results.
Then there's that little bundle of fun, the engine. Nothing like a nice day's work sabotaging your car, is there? This is another case where you're often not just dealing with one problem, and "fixing" one thing may actually make things worse. You could have a perfectly charging car driving some old worn-out thing into the ground, for example.
Imagine, also the benefits of a great motor in a car where everything else is falling to bits. The extra power makes things much worse, almost instantly. The wheels, out of alignment, with all that power, are more dangerous than ever.
Some motorists are good amateur mechanics, but don't kid yourself. If one thing has gone wrong, it will have affected others. If you need car repair, get a professional, and take the guesswork out of the equation before you drive.
How to Install a Car GPS - DIY
Want to add the convenience of a navigation system to your car or truck? GPS navigation systems are one of the most popular aftermarket upgrades on the market today, and installing one of these systems in your vehicle is a great way to take your driving experience up a notch. However, you may want to consider hiring a professional to install your new nav system, as these installations can be surprisingly complex. Of course, putting a portable car GPS in your vehicle can be as simple as sticking a suction cup to the windshield. But if you're considering installing an integrated, in-dash navigation system, you might want to think twice before you tackle the job yourself.
Aesthetics
When it comes to installing a car navigation GPS, you have to consider how it will look, as well as how it will perform. In most cases, putting in a navigation system involves creating an opening in the dash for the screen, and if not done properly, your new navigation equipment will hardly look its best. From crooked screens to jagged edges to scratched, scraped, and damaged dashes, you'd be amazed at the number of things that can go wrong when you try to put in an in-dash navigation screen all on your own. On the other hand, the installers at your area mobile electronics shop have performed hundreds of similar installations in the past. These professionals can expertly cut the hole for the screen, locating it in the optimal position for easy use, and finish the installation in a smooth, seamless way. When installed by experienced pros, aftermarket car navigation systems can look like they've been there since the day the vehicle rolled off the assembly line!
Performance
Of course, looks aren't everything. The whole point of installing a car GPS system is for its navigational assistance and convenience, so you'll also want to make certain it is installed properly for optimal performance. Lose wires, damaged equipment, and other common amateur mistakes can mean that the gyro, compass, speed sensor, or other parts of the system don't function correctly, disabling your GPS (sometimes permanently). At your local car electronics shop, their technicians are trained professionals with a full understanding of the best way to hook up your new navigation system. From securely soldered wires to fully functional components, they can ensure you're able to enjoy every single feature of your new car navigation GPS to its fullest.
Cost
Putting in your own in-dash navigation system obviously carries a lower price tag than using the professional installers at your local car audio shop. That's because you're paying just for the equipment, not for the installation labor as well. So if low cost is your primary criterion, you may want to look into do-it-yourself installation. For the best results, though, make sure you're being honest about your car electronics installation skills: If you have some technical knowledge, the correct tools, and the ability to closely follow installation diagrams, you should be able to hook up your new GPS car navigation components properly. On the other hand, if you don't have the expertise or tools, the results may not meet your expectations in terms of aesthetics or performance, so do a quick assessment of whether or not you really are equipped to handle your own navigation system installation before you start to avoid disaster down the line.
Aesthetics
When it comes to installing a car navigation GPS, you have to consider how it will look, as well as how it will perform. In most cases, putting in a navigation system involves creating an opening in the dash for the screen, and if not done properly, your new navigation equipment will hardly look its best. From crooked screens to jagged edges to scratched, scraped, and damaged dashes, you'd be amazed at the number of things that can go wrong when you try to put in an in-dash navigation screen all on your own. On the other hand, the installers at your area mobile electronics shop have performed hundreds of similar installations in the past. These professionals can expertly cut the hole for the screen, locating it in the optimal position for easy use, and finish the installation in a smooth, seamless way. When installed by experienced pros, aftermarket car navigation systems can look like they've been there since the day the vehicle rolled off the assembly line!
Performance
Of course, looks aren't everything. The whole point of installing a car GPS system is for its navigational assistance and convenience, so you'll also want to make certain it is installed properly for optimal performance. Lose wires, damaged equipment, and other common amateur mistakes can mean that the gyro, compass, speed sensor, or other parts of the system don't function correctly, disabling your GPS (sometimes permanently). At your local car electronics shop, their technicians are trained professionals with a full understanding of the best way to hook up your new navigation system. From securely soldered wires to fully functional components, they can ensure you're able to enjoy every single feature of your new car navigation GPS to its fullest.
Cost
Putting in your own in-dash navigation system obviously carries a lower price tag than using the professional installers at your local car audio shop. That's because you're paying just for the equipment, not for the installation labor as well. So if low cost is your primary criterion, you may want to look into do-it-yourself installation. For the best results, though, make sure you're being honest about your car electronics installation skills: If you have some technical knowledge, the correct tools, and the ability to closely follow installation diagrams, you should be able to hook up your new GPS car navigation components properly. On the other hand, if you don't have the expertise or tools, the results may not meet your expectations in terms of aesthetics or performance, so do a quick assessment of whether or not you really are equipped to handle your own navigation system installation before you start to avoid disaster down the line.
DIY Hydrogen Generator For Cars - Benefits of Cars Running on DIY HHO Generators
People from all over are starting to notice DIY hydrogen generators for cars. They are turning to such alternatives because of the obvious increase in gas prices and to help cut cost when spending for their automobiles. Spending for gasoline being the number cost in car maintenance, many people have realized that running a water powered car can be a great option for their pockets. Moreover, it is not very difficult to convert your car engine and make your own DIY hydrogen generator for cars. Cars run on water easily help you save and improve your fuel economy by almost 50 percent.
The Good Side
There are several good benefits when you run a car on water.
1. Using a water powered car is cheaper than your existing gasoline or diesel engines.
2. The DIY hydrogen generator for the cars is easy to construct and install into your existing cars. All of the parts necessary can be obtained at your own local shop or hardware stores. Most of these parts are very common, inexpensive items. You don't need to order them and spend a lot of time looking for specialists who can offer you the services and the car parts.
3. Water powered car engines burn cleaner fuels compared to other cars. It also gives out less harmful carbon dioxide emissions. Because of this efficiency, you will notice that your water fuel also contributes to your cars performance, making it more efficient.
4. Cars run on water have engines that receive less wear and tear, in contrast to regular cars engines running on gasoline or diesel. This greatly helps extend your engine's running life and lessens the carbon buildup, cutting down costs for automobile repairs and maintenance.
The Good Side
There are several good benefits when you run a car on water.
1. Using a water powered car is cheaper than your existing gasoline or diesel engines.
2. The DIY hydrogen generator for the cars is easy to construct and install into your existing cars. All of the parts necessary can be obtained at your own local shop or hardware stores. Most of these parts are very common, inexpensive items. You don't need to order them and spend a lot of time looking for specialists who can offer you the services and the car parts.
3. Water powered car engines burn cleaner fuels compared to other cars. It also gives out less harmful carbon dioxide emissions. Because of this efficiency, you will notice that your water fuel also contributes to your cars performance, making it more efficient.
4. Cars run on water have engines that receive less wear and tear, in contrast to regular cars engines running on gasoline or diesel. This greatly helps extend your engine's running life and lessens the carbon buildup, cutting down costs for automobile repairs and maintenance.
Feb 21, 2012
Never this cheap again?
Cars have never been this cheap, runs the advert. For once, it's true. If you feel you will need a new car in the next few months, or simply fancy upgrading to something a bit more swish, now's the time to act - for two reasons.
First, car prices have been falling like a stone in recent months. They really are the lowest they've ever been in real terms. In some cases, cars are being offered for sale at half price.
Second, prices appear to have just hit bottom - and could be about to rise again. Despite numerous reports that new vehicle sales are at their lowest level since the Romans introduced chariots to Britain, manufacturers have reacted to the fact that they can't shift their fields of unsold cars by upping prices.
Two weeks ago, both Ford and Vauxhall said they were increasing their list prices by 4.7% and 5% respectively. They blamed the decline of the pound against the euro for the increase. Audi also increased its prices recently.
And, after months of decline, reports from the auction halls suggest that used car prices have risen by £300 since December as buyers started coming back into the used market.
It all adds up to one thing: if you have a bit of money stashed away and you do need a new car, prepare to become one of the few winners of the credit crisis.
New cars at half price
One internet car broker this week was putting together what will be a UK first - a three-cars-for-the-price-of-one deal. Simon Empson, managing director of the Essex-based car broker Broadspeed.com, made headlines last year after offering two Kia Magentis models on a "bogof" (buy-one, get-one-free) deal and says he is now hoping to go one better. "Buyers of certain cars have never had it so good, and we have plenty of new or nearly new cars on our books that are now half price," he says. "Cars aren't half price across the board, but you should be able to get 30% to 40% off almost everything in the mainstream."
Empson says that manufacturers, desperate not to kill the used value of their models, have increasingly been pre-registering the cars and then offering them in an "as-new" condition with just a few miles on the clock. They have also cut lease costs as a way of disguising the price paid by the buyer. It's now possible, for example, to lease a Mercedes saloon for the same monthly payment as a Ford Mondeo.
The savings can be eye-watering. Broadspeed currently has new Chrysler 300C luxury saloons for £17,995, while the list price is close to £35,000. Those looking for a more environmentally friendly car should look at the broker's Kia Cee'ds. These have a list price at close to £14,000, but Empson is selling models that are a few months old, with 2,000 miles on the clock, at under £8,000. These cars have a 1.6 diesel engine that will average more than 60mpg, and they come with an unrivalled seven-year warranty.
A new Fiat Panda 1.1 Active, list price £7,095, is for sale at £5,141. Empson has also just delivered a new petrol Ford Mondeo that sold for almost £14,800. This car, which is very popular at the moment, lists at around £24,000.
Richard Headland, editor of Which Car?, agrees that this is a phenomenal time to buy a car. "If you have the cash and your job is safe, there are some stonking bargains out there - particularly for new cars. We recently found Fiat Pandas being sold new for less than one-year-old models at dealers. Consumers are probably getting some of the best-ever deals, if they are prepared to spend a bit of time finding them. Car makers have said that prices are set to rise, although it remains to be seen whether this will actually feed through. You may find the list prices go up, but the discounts just get even bigger."
Used cars
Used cars are also offering previously unseen value for money, especially among bigger models. If you bought a new Vauxhall Vectra estate in the past year, you may want to look away now because these have collapsed in value. This week, the Slough-based car supermarket TradeSales.co.uk is offering a nine-month-old 1.8 model, with 18,000 miles on the clock, for less than £6,000. Yet these cars were selling for around £15,000 just nine months ago.
Darren Miller, of the west London super-site Cargiant.co.uk, which specialises in selling three-year-old ex-fleet cars, says there have been some spectacular bargains in their halls, particularly for bigger-engined cars.
"Smaller cars have been holding their value much better, but last year's big petrol price hike knocked the 4x4 sector for six," he says. "Grand Cherokee Jeeps that were selling for £10,000 last March, have been going for £4,999. High-mileage, three-year-old, Mercedes-Benz C180 saloons can now be bought for less than £6,000.
The Cargiant website features a three-year-old Mercedes-Benz 4x4 ML350 that would have cost around £34,000 new. It has done just 20,000 miles and is now selling at £9,499. The fact that it averages 20mpg gives a clue why it has dropped some £25,000 in three years. Wait a few months, and it will probably drop even more.
Meanwhile Tony Gannon, a director a British Car Auctions, says used car values may finally have stopped falling. "What we are seeing now is an improvement in values from a low base. This suggests motorists are now more confident to buy used cars. After all, they remain exceptional value."
Is financial help on its way?
Cars may be cheap, but the problem for potential buyers is that it has become virtually impossible to obtain finance. Simon Empson of Broadspeed says buyers who previously never had a problem meeting lenders' criteria now find themselves turned down.
There might be help on the way from the government, which is considering various schemes to assist the ailing car market. There have been rumours of a VAT-free holiday, or £2,000 grants for those willing to scrap their old banger and replace it with a new low-emissions car. However, as many car discounts have now already gone below the 15% VAT level - Citroën is already offering VAT-free deals - it probably wouldn't make much difference to the real prices paid.
Such a move would, of course, help anyone daft enough to go into the local dealer and pay the price shown in the window without asking whether a better discount is available elsewhere.
First, car prices have been falling like a stone in recent months. They really are the lowest they've ever been in real terms. In some cases, cars are being offered for sale at half price.
Second, prices appear to have just hit bottom - and could be about to rise again. Despite numerous reports that new vehicle sales are at their lowest level since the Romans introduced chariots to Britain, manufacturers have reacted to the fact that they can't shift their fields of unsold cars by upping prices.
Two weeks ago, both Ford and Vauxhall said they were increasing their list prices by 4.7% and 5% respectively. They blamed the decline of the pound against the euro for the increase. Audi also increased its prices recently.
And, after months of decline, reports from the auction halls suggest that used car prices have risen by £300 since December as buyers started coming back into the used market.
It all adds up to one thing: if you have a bit of money stashed away and you do need a new car, prepare to become one of the few winners of the credit crisis.
New cars at half price
One internet car broker this week was putting together what will be a UK first - a three-cars-for-the-price-of-one deal. Simon Empson, managing director of the Essex-based car broker Broadspeed.com, made headlines last year after offering two Kia Magentis models on a "bogof" (buy-one, get-one-free) deal and says he is now hoping to go one better. "Buyers of certain cars have never had it so good, and we have plenty of new or nearly new cars on our books that are now half price," he says. "Cars aren't half price across the board, but you should be able to get 30% to 40% off almost everything in the mainstream."
Empson says that manufacturers, desperate not to kill the used value of their models, have increasingly been pre-registering the cars and then offering them in an "as-new" condition with just a few miles on the clock. They have also cut lease costs as a way of disguising the price paid by the buyer. It's now possible, for example, to lease a Mercedes saloon for the same monthly payment as a Ford Mondeo.
The savings can be eye-watering. Broadspeed currently has new Chrysler 300C luxury saloons for £17,995, while the list price is close to £35,000. Those looking for a more environmentally friendly car should look at the broker's Kia Cee'ds. These have a list price at close to £14,000, but Empson is selling models that are a few months old, with 2,000 miles on the clock, at under £8,000. These cars have a 1.6 diesel engine that will average more than 60mpg, and they come with an unrivalled seven-year warranty.
A new Fiat Panda 1.1 Active, list price £7,095, is for sale at £5,141. Empson has also just delivered a new petrol Ford Mondeo that sold for almost £14,800. This car, which is very popular at the moment, lists at around £24,000.
Richard Headland, editor of Which Car?, agrees that this is a phenomenal time to buy a car. "If you have the cash and your job is safe, there are some stonking bargains out there - particularly for new cars. We recently found Fiat Pandas being sold new for less than one-year-old models at dealers. Consumers are probably getting some of the best-ever deals, if they are prepared to spend a bit of time finding them. Car makers have said that prices are set to rise, although it remains to be seen whether this will actually feed through. You may find the list prices go up, but the discounts just get even bigger."
Used cars
Used cars are also offering previously unseen value for money, especially among bigger models. If you bought a new Vauxhall Vectra estate in the past year, you may want to look away now because these have collapsed in value. This week, the Slough-based car supermarket TradeSales.co.uk is offering a nine-month-old 1.8 model, with 18,000 miles on the clock, for less than £6,000. Yet these cars were selling for around £15,000 just nine months ago.
Darren Miller, of the west London super-site Cargiant.co.uk, which specialises in selling three-year-old ex-fleet cars, says there have been some spectacular bargains in their halls, particularly for bigger-engined cars.
"Smaller cars have been holding their value much better, but last year's big petrol price hike knocked the 4x4 sector for six," he says. "Grand Cherokee Jeeps that were selling for £10,000 last March, have been going for £4,999. High-mileage, three-year-old, Mercedes-Benz C180 saloons can now be bought for less than £6,000.
The Cargiant website features a three-year-old Mercedes-Benz 4x4 ML350 that would have cost around £34,000 new. It has done just 20,000 miles and is now selling at £9,499. The fact that it averages 20mpg gives a clue why it has dropped some £25,000 in three years. Wait a few months, and it will probably drop even more.
Meanwhile Tony Gannon, a director a British Car Auctions, says used car values may finally have stopped falling. "What we are seeing now is an improvement in values from a low base. This suggests motorists are now more confident to buy used cars. After all, they remain exceptional value."
Is financial help on its way?
Cars may be cheap, but the problem for potential buyers is that it has become virtually impossible to obtain finance. Simon Empson of Broadspeed says buyers who previously never had a problem meeting lenders' criteria now find themselves turned down.
There might be help on the way from the government, which is considering various schemes to assist the ailing car market. There have been rumours of a VAT-free holiday, or £2,000 grants for those willing to scrap their old banger and replace it with a new low-emissions car. However, as many car discounts have now already gone below the 15% VAT level - Citroën is already offering VAT-free deals - it probably wouldn't make much difference to the real prices paid.
Such a move would, of course, help anyone daft enough to go into the local dealer and pay the price shown in the window without asking whether a better discount is available elsewhere.
Car prices: No need to drive a hard bargain in the showroom
Richard Headland, editor, Which? Car, says: "The internet is revolutionising the way people are shopping for cars, and we're all for it. Not only can buyers find bargain prices online, they have better legal rights. The web has thrown down the gauntlet to traditional car dealerships."
He says that on top of big discounts, car buyers going online get the benefit of distance-selling regulations. These apply if you complete your deal on the internet rather than in person, and give buyers a seven-day cooling-off period in which you can reject the car and get a complete refund. If a deal is done in a showroom, you have no chance to change your mind.
Richard Sanders, founder of Drive the Deal (drivethedeal.com), claims to have sold the first new car on the internet in 1998.
Since then, he says, there has been a 35% increase in people buying online year on year. "I saw building a website as a way of quoting large numbers of people at minimal cost, so that I could pass on to the consumer as much of the saving as possible. People like being able to get a quote without pressure to buy. Contrast this with going to a showroom – if the buyer doesn't know what discount to ask for, they may not get a good deal."
Brokers such as Drive the Deal have been joined online in recent years by independent and franchised dealers, and even reverse auction sites where traders bid for the chance to sell the consumer the car they want.
Drive the Deal and Broadspeed.com buy large numbers of cars from dealers, then pass on the bulk discount they negotiate to individuals. The car is supplied by a dealer with full UK warranty and is exactly the same as you would have got from your local dealership. Which? Car says only 5% of the consumer group's members bought their last car online, but 18% said they are likely to do so in future.
Simon Empson, managing director at Broadspeed, which has been selling cars via the web since 1996, says business has never been better.
"Buyers have now become used to buying cars online from trusted companies. We now have some customers who have bought three or four cars from us and say they would never go back to trailing around the dealers. The only problem we have is getting cars quickly enough.
"In the face of the recession manufacturers slashed production for the UK market, but demand has remained strong and the industry is struggling to get cars. The discounts are still there but now most bookings we are taking are factory orders."
He suggests that when "block exemption" rules on who can sell new cars are ended in March by the European Commission, it could have a big impact on prices .
"We'll be able to order new cars for customers direct from the factory," Empson says. "We've successfully trialled working directly with five manufacturers over the last 12 months, and estimate this buying method could knock 25% off a car's asking price."
He says that on top of big discounts, car buyers going online get the benefit of distance-selling regulations. These apply if you complete your deal on the internet rather than in person, and give buyers a seven-day cooling-off period in which you can reject the car and get a complete refund. If a deal is done in a showroom, you have no chance to change your mind.
Richard Sanders, founder of Drive the Deal (drivethedeal.com), claims to have sold the first new car on the internet in 1998.
Since then, he says, there has been a 35% increase in people buying online year on year. "I saw building a website as a way of quoting large numbers of people at minimal cost, so that I could pass on to the consumer as much of the saving as possible. People like being able to get a quote without pressure to buy. Contrast this with going to a showroom – if the buyer doesn't know what discount to ask for, they may not get a good deal."
Brokers such as Drive the Deal have been joined online in recent years by independent and franchised dealers, and even reverse auction sites where traders bid for the chance to sell the consumer the car they want.
Drive the Deal and Broadspeed.com buy large numbers of cars from dealers, then pass on the bulk discount they negotiate to individuals. The car is supplied by a dealer with full UK warranty and is exactly the same as you would have got from your local dealership. Which? Car says only 5% of the consumer group's members bought their last car online, but 18% said they are likely to do so in future.
Simon Empson, managing director at Broadspeed, which has been selling cars via the web since 1996, says business has never been better.
"Buyers have now become used to buying cars online from trusted companies. We now have some customers who have bought three or four cars from us and say they would never go back to trailing around the dealers. The only problem we have is getting cars quickly enough.
"In the face of the recession manufacturers slashed production for the UK market, but demand has remained strong and the industry is struggling to get cars. The discounts are still there but now most bookings we are taking are factory orders."
He suggests that when "block exemption" rules on who can sell new cars are ended in March by the European Commission, it could have a big impact on prices .
"We'll be able to order new cars for customers direct from the factory," Empson says. "We've successfully trialled working directly with five manufacturers over the last 12 months, and estimate this buying method could knock 25% off a car's asking price."
Buying a used car
Simple saver
According to Glass's Guide - the motor trade bible - one-year-old cars typically retail for around 60% of their original cost. Buy a one-year-old Nissan Micra and you'll probably save around £4,500 on the original list price. The average new Ford Mondeo buyer is losing at least £5,000 in the first year of ownership - even after initial discounts are taken into account. The first owner's loss can be your gain - but the advantage of buying a one-year-old rather than a three-year-old car is you still have the bulk of the manufacturer's warranty in the event of mechanical problems.
Advanced saving tips
1. Head for a motoring "supersite"
If you know little or nothing about cars, the easiest way to buy second-hand (for cars three years old and over) is to head to one of the car supersites - cargiant.co.uk (based on a 23-acre site in west London) probably has the biggest stock and, rather crucially, it's cheap too. Here you can stroll around and take your pick of literally thousands of cars, open them up and sit in them. There are no pushy salesmen, as prices are fixed. It's a great place to compare rival models - you can stay all day until you have made a decision. Many of the biggest bargains come with high mileages, but this should not put you off; just ensure the service history is complete. The main advantage of buying in this way is you have some consumer protection if the car fails soon after. When you get home, ask a mechanic to look it over - any major faults and back you go.
2. Employ a professional to buy at auction
Car auctions are not for the faint-hearted, and unless you have a strong knowledge of both cars and auctions, are probably best avoided. However, the prices at the moment are very attractive - one solution is to use a professional auction buyer to bid on your behalf. Joe Dowd, who trades as auctioncarbuyer.co.uk, is the best known - simply tell him what you want and he'll do the rest. And because he pays trade commission, it won't cost you much more than if you had bought it yourself.
3. Buy privately, with care
Again, it helps here if you know what you are doing - "caveat emptor" (buyer beware) is very much the order of the day. If you've never bought a car privately before, get some assistance. Autotrader.co.uk is easily the main listing site to find used cars, although local papers can still be a good source, and eBay is trying to develop a market in used cars too. The main advice is to go with your instincts - if something seems too good to be true, it probably is.
Check the car's condition closely, look at the old MOTs, go though the service bills properly. Ask lots of questions - such as about the tax - and check the tyres. If you have any doubts, walk away. The great thing about used cars sales is that there are always plenty more to choose from. For more detailed buying advice, go to honestjohn.co.uk.
4. Get the car properly checked before you buy
If you'd like to get a mechanic to look at your chosen car, consider paying for a proper check. The AA will examine your prospective purchase from £122 for a basic check or £165 for something more serious, if you are a member (for non-members it's £136 and £184 respectively). Such inspections usually come with a sort of warranty for a month afterwards, although these can be difficult to claim on. Usedcarchecks.com is another inspection service.
5. And finally ...
Never buy an unknown used car without conducting an HPI ("hire purchase information") check. These cost from £4 (mycarcheck.com) to £20 (hpicheck.com) and will tell you if the car is subject to outstanding finance, has been stolen or involved in a serious accident. This is a must, however plausible the seller sounds.
Quick stats
32 million
Total number of cars on the UK roads today
£165
Cost of a full AA inspection of a used car
40%
Typical price of a three-year-old car as a proportion of its original (new) price
Planet saver
Running an old car is not as environmentally unfriendly as some would have you believe - if it is well serviced and running efficiently. Large amounts of energy are consumed in the car-building process, so buying a new car that emits less CO2 is not necessarily the best solution for those looking to cut down on their carbon emissions. Better to use an older car less than a new car more. Regular servicing and emissions checks are important, too - particularly if you run an older diesel. If you choose to maintain a diesel car, consider switching to bio-diesel produced from recycled chip fat.
According to Glass's Guide - the motor trade bible - one-year-old cars typically retail for around 60% of their original cost. Buy a one-year-old Nissan Micra and you'll probably save around £4,500 on the original list price. The average new Ford Mondeo buyer is losing at least £5,000 in the first year of ownership - even after initial discounts are taken into account. The first owner's loss can be your gain - but the advantage of buying a one-year-old rather than a three-year-old car is you still have the bulk of the manufacturer's warranty in the event of mechanical problems.
Advanced saving tips
1. Head for a motoring "supersite"
If you know little or nothing about cars, the easiest way to buy second-hand (for cars three years old and over) is to head to one of the car supersites - cargiant.co.uk (based on a 23-acre site in west London) probably has the biggest stock and, rather crucially, it's cheap too. Here you can stroll around and take your pick of literally thousands of cars, open them up and sit in them. There are no pushy salesmen, as prices are fixed. It's a great place to compare rival models - you can stay all day until you have made a decision. Many of the biggest bargains come with high mileages, but this should not put you off; just ensure the service history is complete. The main advantage of buying in this way is you have some consumer protection if the car fails soon after. When you get home, ask a mechanic to look it over - any major faults and back you go.
2. Employ a professional to buy at auction
Car auctions are not for the faint-hearted, and unless you have a strong knowledge of both cars and auctions, are probably best avoided. However, the prices at the moment are very attractive - one solution is to use a professional auction buyer to bid on your behalf. Joe Dowd, who trades as auctioncarbuyer.co.uk, is the best known - simply tell him what you want and he'll do the rest. And because he pays trade commission, it won't cost you much more than if you had bought it yourself.
3. Buy privately, with care
Again, it helps here if you know what you are doing - "caveat emptor" (buyer beware) is very much the order of the day. If you've never bought a car privately before, get some assistance. Autotrader.co.uk is easily the main listing site to find used cars, although local papers can still be a good source, and eBay is trying to develop a market in used cars too. The main advice is to go with your instincts - if something seems too good to be true, it probably is.
Check the car's condition closely, look at the old MOTs, go though the service bills properly. Ask lots of questions - such as about the tax - and check the tyres. If you have any doubts, walk away. The great thing about used cars sales is that there are always plenty more to choose from. For more detailed buying advice, go to honestjohn.co.uk.
4. Get the car properly checked before you buy
If you'd like to get a mechanic to look at your chosen car, consider paying for a proper check. The AA will examine your prospective purchase from £122 for a basic check or £165 for something more serious, if you are a member (for non-members it's £136 and £184 respectively). Such inspections usually come with a sort of warranty for a month afterwards, although these can be difficult to claim on. Usedcarchecks.com is another inspection service.
5. And finally ...
Never buy an unknown used car without conducting an HPI ("hire purchase information") check. These cost from £4 (mycarcheck.com) to £20 (hpicheck.com) and will tell you if the car is subject to outstanding finance, has been stolen or involved in a serious accident. This is a must, however plausible the seller sounds.
Quick stats
32 million
Total number of cars on the UK roads today
£165
Cost of a full AA inspection of a used car
40%
Typical price of a three-year-old car as a proportion of its original (new) price
Planet saver
Running an old car is not as environmentally unfriendly as some would have you believe - if it is well serviced and running efficiently. Large amounts of energy are consumed in the car-building process, so buying a new car that emits less CO2 is not necessarily the best solution for those looking to cut down on their carbon emissions. Better to use an older car less than a new car more. Regular servicing and emissions checks are important, too - particularly if you run an older diesel. If you choose to maintain a diesel car, consider switching to bio-diesel produced from recycled chip fat.
Feb 20, 2012
How to Use a Car Dent Puller
A car dent puller is a simple tool that can save you a great deal of money. If you have a small dent on your vehicle, you'll be able to fix it yourself instead of going in to the body shop. It's simple to use and there are also suction dent pullers available.
Tools and Materials
Dent puller kit
Flathead screwdriver
Suction dent puller
Step 1 - Cleaning
Start by cleaning the dent and the area surrounding it. It's important to be thorough with this, as it will help the suction cup adhesive stick more firmly. Be sure to use a good cleaner on the area, rub thoroughly and then wash clean so there's no soap residue.
Step 2 - Preparing the Dent Puller
Take your car dent puller and arrange it so the knobs at the edge and the center are in the ready position-that is, completely loose. If you're not sure what to do, look at the instructions that came with the car dent puller. Take out the adhesive from the kit and apply it to all the suction pads. You only need to use a very thin layer.
With that done, you're ready to place the car dent puller on the dent. Position it so that the pad in the center sits in the middle of the dent. Spread the arms so that the other pads fasten down between 2 inches and 3 inches from the dent's edge.
Step 3 - Pulling the Dent
You need to hold the pads so they stay firmly in position. Keep a hold for 5 minutes, then leave the car dent puller in place for 6 hours, which gives the adhesive ample time to dry. When you return to the car dent puller, begin to turn the middle pad in a counter clockwise direction. You need to go slowly and not break the adhesive bond. As you twist, you'll discover that you're pulling out the dent. Keep going until you've pulled it out completely.
To break the adhesive, you'll need to twist the pads outside the dent. From this you'll be able to remove all the pads. You might have a little adhesive clinging to the paintwork. You can remove this by scraping gently with a flathead screwdriver. Use the cleaner once more on the dent area to wipe off any extra adhesive.
Step 4 - Suction Cup Dent Puller
There's also a simpler way to do the job, using a large suction cup car dent puller. This takes more strength, but works far more quickly. The tool is a large suction cut with two handles in the middle. To use it, you need to push the suction cup into the dent, experimenting several times until you achieve strong suction.
You lock the car dent puller by push the handles together. Having that lock is vital. Once you've achieved it, start to pull the dent out with muscle power. Don't try to yank it out, but apply firm, even pressure until it's out. Open the handles to release the lock and remove the car dent puller from the body.
Tools and Materials
Dent puller kit
Flathead screwdriver
Suction dent puller
Step 1 - Cleaning
Start by cleaning the dent and the area surrounding it. It's important to be thorough with this, as it will help the suction cup adhesive stick more firmly. Be sure to use a good cleaner on the area, rub thoroughly and then wash clean so there's no soap residue.
Step 2 - Preparing the Dent Puller
Take your car dent puller and arrange it so the knobs at the edge and the center are in the ready position-that is, completely loose. If you're not sure what to do, look at the instructions that came with the car dent puller. Take out the adhesive from the kit and apply it to all the suction pads. You only need to use a very thin layer.
With that done, you're ready to place the car dent puller on the dent. Position it so that the pad in the center sits in the middle of the dent. Spread the arms so that the other pads fasten down between 2 inches and 3 inches from the dent's edge.
Step 3 - Pulling the Dent
You need to hold the pads so they stay firmly in position. Keep a hold for 5 minutes, then leave the car dent puller in place for 6 hours, which gives the adhesive ample time to dry. When you return to the car dent puller, begin to turn the middle pad in a counter clockwise direction. You need to go slowly and not break the adhesive bond. As you twist, you'll discover that you're pulling out the dent. Keep going until you've pulled it out completely.
To break the adhesive, you'll need to twist the pads outside the dent. From this you'll be able to remove all the pads. You might have a little adhesive clinging to the paintwork. You can remove this by scraping gently with a flathead screwdriver. Use the cleaner once more on the dent area to wipe off any extra adhesive.
Step 4 - Suction Cup Dent Puller
There's also a simpler way to do the job, using a large suction cup car dent puller. This takes more strength, but works far more quickly. The tool is a large suction cut with two handles in the middle. To use it, you need to push the suction cup into the dent, experimenting several times until you achieve strong suction.
You lock the car dent puller by push the handles together. Having that lock is vital. Once you've achieved it, start to pull the dent out with muscle power. Don't try to yank it out, but apply firm, even pressure until it's out. Open the handles to release the lock and remove the car dent puller from the body.
How to Mix and Spread Car Body Filler
Car body filler is a chemical compound which allows us to fill holes and chinks in the bodywork of our vehicles at a relatively low cost. It makes homes repairs easier and cheaper. There are some rules which apply to using car body filler and people often make the mistake of using it incorrectly. Its best bedding is always metal or fiberglass and there should ideally be no air between the filler and the material it is bedded into.
Step 1 - Understanding the Compound
It is vital to remember that car body filler is a compound chemical mixture of two components. In order for it to properly cure, it must be mixed correctly. The most common brand name for body filler is Bondo, but while Bondo is a brand name, it has become synonymous with generic brands too. Always follow the mixing directions when using car body filler. The right proportions of each part must be mixed together.
Step 2 - Mixing the Compound
Always use a mask when you intent to mix body filler. The fumes are strong and potentially toxic, so use a form of protection on your face. A large piece of stiff card is usually a good product to mix the filler on. It doesn’t encourage hardening and it is disposable. You can use thin plastic or Perspex too. For mixing the two parts of the compound you can always use a wooden stick from an ice pop or lollipop. Use another piece of stiff card to scoop some filler out of the can and shut the lid. Take the tube of hardener and spread some across the filler and mix gently but quickly. Fold the two parts together until the marbling has disappeared and the mix is all one color. Be very careful not add too much hardener because it will cause the mix to cure too quickly. Mix until the compound is a light gray and the consistency of whipped cream.
Step 3 - Using the Mixture
You will need a strong piece of thin plastic, or a credit card sized piece that you can use to spread the mixture. You must make sure the potential surface is ready to accept the filler before you mix it. By then you should have sanded the body work down, wiped it with a clean tack cloth and smoothed it out using fine damp wet and dry sand paper. Once you have made certain it is clean, dry and ready, only then should you mix the car body filler to complete your hole or dent repair. Scoop up a little filler on the plastic card and spread it evenly and consistently onto the area of the body work that needs it. As you spread, any excess will be picked up on the card and taken along with it where you can rework it over the area if you need to. Once you have smoothed out the surface where the filler has been applied, leave it to dry hard before you sand it down and apply any further treatment.
Step 1 - Understanding the Compound
It is vital to remember that car body filler is a compound chemical mixture of two components. In order for it to properly cure, it must be mixed correctly. The most common brand name for body filler is Bondo, but while Bondo is a brand name, it has become synonymous with generic brands too. Always follow the mixing directions when using car body filler. The right proportions of each part must be mixed together.
Step 2 - Mixing the Compound
Always use a mask when you intent to mix body filler. The fumes are strong and potentially toxic, so use a form of protection on your face. A large piece of stiff card is usually a good product to mix the filler on. It doesn’t encourage hardening and it is disposable. You can use thin plastic or Perspex too. For mixing the two parts of the compound you can always use a wooden stick from an ice pop or lollipop. Use another piece of stiff card to scoop some filler out of the can and shut the lid. Take the tube of hardener and spread some across the filler and mix gently but quickly. Fold the two parts together until the marbling has disappeared and the mix is all one color. Be very careful not add too much hardener because it will cause the mix to cure too quickly. Mix until the compound is a light gray and the consistency of whipped cream.
Step 3 - Using the Mixture
You will need a strong piece of thin plastic, or a credit card sized piece that you can use to spread the mixture. You must make sure the potential surface is ready to accept the filler before you mix it. By then you should have sanded the body work down, wiped it with a clean tack cloth and smoothed it out using fine damp wet and dry sand paper. Once you have made certain it is clean, dry and ready, only then should you mix the car body filler to complete your hole or dent repair. Scoop up a little filler on the plastic card and spread it evenly and consistently onto the area of the body work that needs it. As you spread, any excess will be picked up on the card and taken along with it where you can rework it over the area if you need to. Once you have smoothed out the surface where the filler has been applied, leave it to dry hard before you sand it down and apply any further treatment.
3 Bumper Scratch Repair Methods
Bumper scratch repair can be a costly process if you need to make a claim on your insurance. You will likely have to pay your deductible and that might end up being more than what it costs to repair. You might just decide that it's cheaper for you to repair it yourself, in which case you will just need a few items and some time on your hands.
1. Color Coded Bumpers
Scratches vary in size, shape and length, as do bumpers. If your car bumper is color coded to your vehicle you can still mend it yourself. You will need masking tape, matching paint, clear top coat, sandpaper and a sponge and soapy water. Start by rubbing down the area and sanding it smooth. You will lose some paint from the undamaged area, but this is to be expected. Wash the bumper down with the soapy water and sponge and then either wipe it dry or let it air dry.
Mask off the damaged area to avoid over painting. Use the matching paint and spray a light covering coat over the area. Leave that coat to dry and then apply a second coat. Leave that to dry and then apply a clear coat if required. Once you remove the masking tape you might find a very gentle lip of paint where the edges were. You can use a wax polish to blend that because it will still be marginally soft enough to blend away without scarring.
2. Vinyl Bumpers
These are a nuisance to fix, but to reduce your bumper scratch repair cost you can do it yourself. When you get a scratch on a vinyl bumper the best thing you can really do is use a tiny amount of resin compound colored to as close to the bumper color as possible, and then try to match the pattern finish on the vinyl to disguise it. You can try heating the area gently with a heat gun and using a heavy sandpaper to disguise the scratch. Don't rub the sandpaper onto the bumper, just apply it to the area and press it in gently and pull it away again to emulate the mold.
3. Metallic and Chrome Bumpers
These are probably the easiest bumpers to remove scratches from. It does depend largely on the depth of the scratch, but let's work on the idea that it was a gentle 'kiss' and not a deep gouge. You can initially try to wipe the scratch away if it is just a surface mark. Use cola and a rolled up ball of aluminum foil. Dip the foil in the cola and rub the area. It will bring the metal or chrome up to a brilliant shine and remove any oxidation at the same time. If the scratch comes off as you use this method, you have a quick and easy fix to your problem. If you need to buy a bumper scratch repair kit to assist you with a more difficult scratch, then find a recommended brand.
1. Color Coded Bumpers
Scratches vary in size, shape and length, as do bumpers. If your car bumper is color coded to your vehicle you can still mend it yourself. You will need masking tape, matching paint, clear top coat, sandpaper and a sponge and soapy water. Start by rubbing down the area and sanding it smooth. You will lose some paint from the undamaged area, but this is to be expected. Wash the bumper down with the soapy water and sponge and then either wipe it dry or let it air dry.
Mask off the damaged area to avoid over painting. Use the matching paint and spray a light covering coat over the area. Leave that coat to dry and then apply a second coat. Leave that to dry and then apply a clear coat if required. Once you remove the masking tape you might find a very gentle lip of paint where the edges were. You can use a wax polish to blend that because it will still be marginally soft enough to blend away without scarring.
2. Vinyl Bumpers
These are a nuisance to fix, but to reduce your bumper scratch repair cost you can do it yourself. When you get a scratch on a vinyl bumper the best thing you can really do is use a tiny amount of resin compound colored to as close to the bumper color as possible, and then try to match the pattern finish on the vinyl to disguise it. You can try heating the area gently with a heat gun and using a heavy sandpaper to disguise the scratch. Don't rub the sandpaper onto the bumper, just apply it to the area and press it in gently and pull it away again to emulate the mold.
3. Metallic and Chrome Bumpers
These are probably the easiest bumpers to remove scratches from. It does depend largely on the depth of the scratch, but let's work on the idea that it was a gentle 'kiss' and not a deep gouge. You can initially try to wipe the scratch away if it is just a surface mark. Use cola and a rolled up ball of aluminum foil. Dip the foil in the cola and rub the area. It will bring the metal or chrome up to a brilliant shine and remove any oxidation at the same time. If the scratch comes off as you use this method, you have a quick and easy fix to your problem. If you need to buy a bumper scratch repair kit to assist you with a more difficult scratch, then find a recommended brand.
Paintless Auto Repair
What is Paintless Repair?
Paintless Repair, Paintless Dent Repair, PDR... however you phrase it, this new technique has claimed a very large place in today's automobile body repair industry. Paintless repair is a method of making a high-quality repair to small dents and dings on your car's body, at a dent repairedfraction of the time and cost a body shop would require. The process involves using PDR Tools to reach in behind the area of the dent, and slowly "massage" the dent out of the panel. Occasionally, technicians may opt to use a "glue puller," which actually pulls out the dent from the outside of the vehicle panel. Either technique offers a very high-quality repair, at far less cost and time, when compared to older repair methods.
What's the cost?
Paintless Dent Repair normally costs only a fraction of what a body shop might require. Smaller dents are often repaired for $100 or less. Plus, a PDR shop will often give you a discount if more than one dent is to be repaired. Of course, actual pricing will depend upon the severity of your vehicle's damage, the location of the dent, etc. Many times a paintless dent repair shop will provide you with a free estimate of the cost involved. Another important point to remember here is that having those dings removed could pay for itself many times over, with respect to the resale value of your vehicle.
How much time is required for the repair?
Paintless dent repair can be done very quickly and effectively, often taking less than 30 minutes to complete. In fact, much like on-site windshield replacements, paintless repair technicians will often come to you, and make the repairs right on site. Compare this to taking your vehicle to a body shop, leaving it there for several days or longer, having to obtain transportation while your vehicle is gone, then having to travel back to pick it up. Paintless dent repair is your best option for fast, high-quality repairs on most all small dents and dings to your vehicle.
Paintless Repair, Paintless Dent Repair, PDR... however you phrase it, this new technique has claimed a very large place in today's automobile body repair industry. Paintless repair is a method of making a high-quality repair to small dents and dings on your car's body, at a dent repairedfraction of the time and cost a body shop would require. The process involves using PDR Tools to reach in behind the area of the dent, and slowly "massage" the dent out of the panel. Occasionally, technicians may opt to use a "glue puller," which actually pulls out the dent from the outside of the vehicle panel. Either technique offers a very high-quality repair, at far less cost and time, when compared to older repair methods.
What's the cost?
Paintless Dent Repair normally costs only a fraction of what a body shop might require. Smaller dents are often repaired for $100 or less. Plus, a PDR shop will often give you a discount if more than one dent is to be repaired. Of course, actual pricing will depend upon the severity of your vehicle's damage, the location of the dent, etc. Many times a paintless dent repair shop will provide you with a free estimate of the cost involved. Another important point to remember here is that having those dings removed could pay for itself many times over, with respect to the resale value of your vehicle.
How much time is required for the repair?
Paintless dent repair can be done very quickly and effectively, often taking less than 30 minutes to complete. In fact, much like on-site windshield replacements, paintless repair technicians will often come to you, and make the repairs right on site. Compare this to taking your vehicle to a body shop, leaving it there for several days or longer, having to obtain transportation while your vehicle is gone, then having to travel back to pick it up. Paintless dent repair is your best option for fast, high-quality repairs on most all small dents and dings to your vehicle.
Feb 19, 2012
Used Car Dealerships
The main thing that drives this industry is the money savings people can take advantage of when buying used instead of buying new. A new car immediately loses value the second you drive it off the lot. Let other people take that loss in value by buying a certified pre-owned car.
A common misconception is that used cars carry much more problems than buying brand new from a dealership. This isn't true considering all the checks and measures your used car lot takes to make sure the car that they are selling is completely suitable and in perfect working order. In many cases these used vehicles still have an existing warranty on them, or you have the option of purchasing a warranty to make you feel confident you won't have any costly repairs down the road.
One major benefit a used car dealership presents to people is budget options. People can choose from highly expensive cars to very affordable economical cars on the same lot. This simply gives customers more options, and people really like to have these types of options. A used car dealership can also save people from taking many trips to many different dealerships because they carry different brand named vehicles at all times.
Customer service is a major consideration when it comes to the employees and owners of a used car dealership. Their mission is to find the right car, for the right person, and sell it to them at the right price. If their customers aren't happy, they will lose business. This is why these types of dealerships are much friendlier than corporate owned new car lots.
Used cars simply save people money. This savings can be from the overall price of the car, and the insurance cost of a car. Used cars are cheaper on insurance than when you buy brand new. There is also more room in the price a vehicle to haggle with, instead of paying the brand new car premium that other dealerships have.
If you are in the market for a new vehicle, you should take a second glance at cars that are used. Many cars for sale that are used come off a lease, which means low miles and that it was highly maintained. This presents the best buy for a customer. No matter what your budget is, or what type of vehicle you are in the market for, a used car lot has the best chance of suiting your needs.
A common misconception is that used cars carry much more problems than buying brand new from a dealership. This isn't true considering all the checks and measures your used car lot takes to make sure the car that they are selling is completely suitable and in perfect working order. In many cases these used vehicles still have an existing warranty on them, or you have the option of purchasing a warranty to make you feel confident you won't have any costly repairs down the road.
One major benefit a used car dealership presents to people is budget options. People can choose from highly expensive cars to very affordable economical cars on the same lot. This simply gives customers more options, and people really like to have these types of options. A used car dealership can also save people from taking many trips to many different dealerships because they carry different brand named vehicles at all times.
Customer service is a major consideration when it comes to the employees and owners of a used car dealership. Their mission is to find the right car, for the right person, and sell it to them at the right price. If their customers aren't happy, they will lose business. This is why these types of dealerships are much friendlier than corporate owned new car lots.
Used cars simply save people money. This savings can be from the overall price of the car, and the insurance cost of a car. Used cars are cheaper on insurance than when you buy brand new. There is also more room in the price a vehicle to haggle with, instead of paying the brand new car premium that other dealerships have.
If you are in the market for a new vehicle, you should take a second glance at cars that are used. Many cars for sale that are used come off a lease, which means low miles and that it was highly maintained. This presents the best buy for a customer. No matter what your budget is, or what type of vehicle you are in the market for, a used car lot has the best chance of suiting your needs.
Finding Used Cars for Sale Online
Used car listing websites
There are many good car listing websites. One such website is Finding Motors which offer the option of viewing used cars for sale by make, body type, price range, fuel type and gearbox. Prospective buyers can also do localised searches to find a car that they can purchase near home. This website deals with U.K. used car sales.
When viewing used car sales online potential buyers can view photographs and also email the car dealer or owner with questions regarding the car. This is a much more efficient method than having to go and meet the person to discuss the vehicle when you are just at the perusing stage. Of course, if you do intend to buy the car from the classified advertising site, it is very important to meet the seller, view and test drive the car, and possibly bring along a car mechanic to check that everything is in proper working order.
Car dealership's websites
Some car dealers offer incentives to customers who search their websites before purchasing from the actual dealership, such as giving online discount. This also enables prospective buyers to view a car dealership's current stock online and determine if their showroom is worth a visit or not. Having customers who have already checked out their used cars for sale online cuts down on the dealer's time and manpower as well. Online advertisements also give car dealers much greater coverage of the second hand cars they are trying to sell and widens their range of customers, potentially bringing them a lot more business.
Online research
Another significant advantage of the Internet when checking second hand cars for sale, is the ability to acquire a large amount of information in a short space of time. You can obtain a detailed report of the vehicle by submitting the vehicle identification number to Carfax. This will supply you with information on the car's owners, any accidents and any major mechanical issues. This equips you with the knowledge needed to make an informed decision so you select the best car for your budget and needs. Obtaining the same information offline can take up to two weeks.
Save time and money
With reliable websites that advertise used cars for sale, there is no longer the need to solely rely on the time-consuming method of going round car dealers and pouring over newspaper advertisements. You can use online tools to narrow the search to your preferences of make, model, price, fuel type etc and conduct most of your research and correspondence with the seller online. Having gathered a large amount of information on the car you would like to buy and other comparable types of used cars can also give you bargaining power. The seller will be aware that you know a lot about the car as well as the value of similar used cars.
There are many good car listing websites. One such website is Finding Motors which offer the option of viewing used cars for sale by make, body type, price range, fuel type and gearbox. Prospective buyers can also do localised searches to find a car that they can purchase near home. This website deals with U.K. used car sales.
When viewing used car sales online potential buyers can view photographs and also email the car dealer or owner with questions regarding the car. This is a much more efficient method than having to go and meet the person to discuss the vehicle when you are just at the perusing stage. Of course, if you do intend to buy the car from the classified advertising site, it is very important to meet the seller, view and test drive the car, and possibly bring along a car mechanic to check that everything is in proper working order.
Car dealership's websites
Some car dealers offer incentives to customers who search their websites before purchasing from the actual dealership, such as giving online discount. This also enables prospective buyers to view a car dealership's current stock online and determine if their showroom is worth a visit or not. Having customers who have already checked out their used cars for sale online cuts down on the dealer's time and manpower as well. Online advertisements also give car dealers much greater coverage of the second hand cars they are trying to sell and widens their range of customers, potentially bringing them a lot more business.
Online research
Another significant advantage of the Internet when checking second hand cars for sale, is the ability to acquire a large amount of information in a short space of time. You can obtain a detailed report of the vehicle by submitting the vehicle identification number to Carfax. This will supply you with information on the car's owners, any accidents and any major mechanical issues. This equips you with the knowledge needed to make an informed decision so you select the best car for your budget and needs. Obtaining the same information offline can take up to two weeks.
Save time and money
With reliable websites that advertise used cars for sale, there is no longer the need to solely rely on the time-consuming method of going round car dealers and pouring over newspaper advertisements. You can use online tools to narrow the search to your preferences of make, model, price, fuel type etc and conduct most of your research and correspondence with the seller online. Having gathered a large amount of information on the car you would like to buy and other comparable types of used cars can also give you bargaining power. The seller will be aware that you know a lot about the car as well as the value of similar used cars.
Why Not to Pimp Your Used Car
First and foremost, you need to keep in mind that the team on Pimp My Ride are highly skilled mechanics. Xzibit and his dubious rap/acting career aside, the rest of the team are professionals who know exactly what they are doing. If you're going to pimp your ride yourself, make sure you know exactly what you are doing, and that you have all the necessary skills. Ruining your used car may not cost you a penny, but sorting out your mess afterwards could cost you a fortune, plus your mechanic will probably laugh you right out of his garage.
Even if all your pimping is successful and you don't wind up ruining your once perfectly good used car, there are still problems a-plenty for souped-up rides. Firstly, the insurance. With a newly hot-looking motor, you will be bound to attract attention, envy and damage. Stand-out cars are more likely to get pinched than your trusty, old used car. On the road, you are also more likely to encourage aggression and animosity from other drivers. This can result in even more damage to your car, which will drive your insurance up through the roof and drive you crazy all at once.
And still there are even more issues. Even if your car receives no criminal attention, you are still likely to find yourself under the scrutiny of the police. Many of the methods of pimping your ride are illegal and not safe to use on the road with other drivers. Neon lights under your used car, for example, can get you a fine or even a couple of points on your license.
In the UK, the laws regarding neons and strobes under your car are unclear and a bit confusing. As a rule of thumb, if your pimped out used car is lit up light a Christmas tree it will probably distract other drivers. This will get you pulled over by the first policeman you pass. Technically, the only under-car lighting that is allowed is red back lighting, orange side-lighting and white front-lighting, but the only way to be truly safe from unwanted cop attention is to only use your under-car lighting when driving off-road, which sort of defeats the point, really.
All in all, if you are hoping to cheaply and effectively pimp your ride yourself, you are sorely mistaken. Unless you are a master mechanic, or happen to be friends with Xzibit and his team, steer away from souping up your used motor yourself. It could land you in a whole heap of trouble.
Even if all your pimping is successful and you don't wind up ruining your once perfectly good used car, there are still problems a-plenty for souped-up rides. Firstly, the insurance. With a newly hot-looking motor, you will be bound to attract attention, envy and damage. Stand-out cars are more likely to get pinched than your trusty, old used car. On the road, you are also more likely to encourage aggression and animosity from other drivers. This can result in even more damage to your car, which will drive your insurance up through the roof and drive you crazy all at once.
And still there are even more issues. Even if your car receives no criminal attention, you are still likely to find yourself under the scrutiny of the police. Many of the methods of pimping your ride are illegal and not safe to use on the road with other drivers. Neon lights under your used car, for example, can get you a fine or even a couple of points on your license.
In the UK, the laws regarding neons and strobes under your car are unclear and a bit confusing. As a rule of thumb, if your pimped out used car is lit up light a Christmas tree it will probably distract other drivers. This will get you pulled over by the first policeman you pass. Technically, the only under-car lighting that is allowed is red back lighting, orange side-lighting and white front-lighting, but the only way to be truly safe from unwanted cop attention is to only use your under-car lighting when driving off-road, which sort of defeats the point, really.
All in all, if you are hoping to cheaply and effectively pimp your ride yourself, you are sorely mistaken. Unless you are a master mechanic, or happen to be friends with Xzibit and his team, steer away from souping up your used motor yourself. It could land you in a whole heap of trouble.
Buying a Used Car Or a New Car
One major factor that is considered by almost everyone who is about to buy a car is depreciation. Both buyers of new and used cars usually consider what the car will cost in another few years when they are ready to trade it in for another one. Another major issue is finance obviously a brand new Toyota Camry for example will be more expensive than one with a few miles on it no matter how little. Most buyers purchase their cars on a finance plan and there is usually interest to be paid on the loan, so anyone in this situation will want to buy a nice car that will have the features he or she wants without going above the budget. Since Majority of the people in most countries are in this category and new cars are usually expensive, you will find that more people go for used cars than new cars as this is simply what they can afford. Asides from finance and depreciation there are other factors that influence this decision. Used cars used to be deemed inferior but not anymore as there are now tools to do detailed checks of a car's history before settling for it. A major reason people get skeptical about used cars is the possibility that there might be some underlying problem with the vehicle which the owner might not be revealing. There are now approved used car warranty plans that can offer up to twelve months warranty keeping the used car buyer re-assured.
The benefits and incentives of a new car are very obvious from manufacturer's warranty to free repairs that can last up to three years; so far you can afford the one. Another factor to consider when buying a new car is the vehicle color, for example a pink Mercedes-Benz will not sell as fast as a black or grey one. Also if you buy a new car that was quite popular when it was released and the automaker is stopping production on it because a newer model is in the works, you might not have to worry much about depreciation as you will most likely get a good deal when selling because it will no longer be in production by then. One major advantage of getting a new car straight from the manufacturer is customization; the car can be customized to the buyer's specification from interior color and material to exterior color and finishing. It is the job of the car sales guy to try to convince you to add some more features and customize to the maximum, to save yourself some money be prepared and know what you really want. In conclusion, there are benefits to either option.
The benefits and incentives of a new car are very obvious from manufacturer's warranty to free repairs that can last up to three years; so far you can afford the one. Another factor to consider when buying a new car is the vehicle color, for example a pink Mercedes-Benz will not sell as fast as a black or grey one. Also if you buy a new car that was quite popular when it was released and the automaker is stopping production on it because a newer model is in the works, you might not have to worry much about depreciation as you will most likely get a good deal when selling because it will no longer be in production by then. One major advantage of getting a new car straight from the manufacturer is customization; the car can be customized to the buyer's specification from interior color and material to exterior color and finishing. It is the job of the car sales guy to try to convince you to add some more features and customize to the maximum, to save yourself some money be prepared and know what you really want. In conclusion, there are benefits to either option.
Used Car Buying Tips
After all, the vehicles tend to cost much less than new cars, and one can find a great deal on any model of car with a little work. However, it is quite easy for an inexperienced buyer to be taken advantage of. Here are three quick tips that can help even a first time car buyer make the right choices.
Do Your Research
Perhaps the most important part of used car buying is knowing what to look for in a vehicle. A good shopper will not only have some idea of what a vehicle should look like cosmetically, but also the realistic life span of the car. For example, a Mercury Cougar with ninety thousand miles will be at the end of its lifespan, while a Dodge truck might have quite a ways to go.
Make sure that you know something about what the common features are on a vehicle, its realistic lifespan, and what common signs of wear and tear are. Coupled with an informed knowledge of the realistic price of the car, this can help a savvy buyer get quite a good deal.
Check Out The History
One major problem that many buyers have with used vehicles is the simple fact that one often does not know what the car has gone through before purchase. Fortunately, there are a number of ways to find out the history of a vehicle before making a down payment. First and foremost, one should ask for some kind of car history report - the most common is from CarFax, but there are several other reports available.
If one cannot find this sort of third party history, one should ask the salesperson directly about the car's history. If the answer is "it is in perfect condition" or something equally as unrealistic, the salesperson may be hiding a major defect. This is a prime situation in which one should go with their gut instinct over a sales pitch.
Don't Be Afraid To Walk Away
New car buying is generally a very careful game of give and take, but used car buying tends to benefit from dramatic gestures. Used vehicles tend to have quite a bit more markup than a new car, and thus the dealer tends to have a good bit more discretion in setting a price. If the price you have found is significantly higher than the blue book value of the vehicle, it is time to walk away.
In fact, any price that sounds suspiciously high should be discounted immediately. Dealers make their living off of buying low and selling high, and they rightfully try to get the most money possible for any given used vehicle. As a consumer, your job is to find a price that will work for both you and the dealer. If you cannot come to an acceptable compromise, be willing to walk away.
Do Your Research
Perhaps the most important part of used car buying is knowing what to look for in a vehicle. A good shopper will not only have some idea of what a vehicle should look like cosmetically, but also the realistic life span of the car. For example, a Mercury Cougar with ninety thousand miles will be at the end of its lifespan, while a Dodge truck might have quite a ways to go.
Make sure that you know something about what the common features are on a vehicle, its realistic lifespan, and what common signs of wear and tear are. Coupled with an informed knowledge of the realistic price of the car, this can help a savvy buyer get quite a good deal.
Check Out The History
One major problem that many buyers have with used vehicles is the simple fact that one often does not know what the car has gone through before purchase. Fortunately, there are a number of ways to find out the history of a vehicle before making a down payment. First and foremost, one should ask for some kind of car history report - the most common is from CarFax, but there are several other reports available.
If one cannot find this sort of third party history, one should ask the salesperson directly about the car's history. If the answer is "it is in perfect condition" or something equally as unrealistic, the salesperson may be hiding a major defect. This is a prime situation in which one should go with their gut instinct over a sales pitch.
Don't Be Afraid To Walk Away
New car buying is generally a very careful game of give and take, but used car buying tends to benefit from dramatic gestures. Used vehicles tend to have quite a bit more markup than a new car, and thus the dealer tends to have a good bit more discretion in setting a price. If the price you have found is significantly higher than the blue book value of the vehicle, it is time to walk away.
In fact, any price that sounds suspiciously high should be discounted immediately. Dealers make their living off of buying low and selling high, and they rightfully try to get the most money possible for any given used vehicle. As a consumer, your job is to find a price that will work for both you and the dealer. If you cannot come to an acceptable compromise, be willing to walk away.
Feb 18, 2012
Our Picks For The Best $10,000 Used Trucks
Toyota Tacoma
Year: 2004
Equipment: 4-cylinder, 5-speed manual, 2WD
The last year of the first generation Toyota Tacoma found success not only with truckers but with beach bums and California hippies alike. The Tacoma may not be the cheapest new truck on the market but it sure does hold up its values well. We liked the first generation "Tacos" because of their reliability. It should be noted that recent complaints about this generation's inadequate rustproofing (specifically 1995-2000 year models) prompted the company to offer 15-year corrosion warranties to all Tacoma owners.
Equipment: 4-cylinder, 5-speed manual, 2WD
The last year of the first generation Toyota Tacoma found success not only with truckers but with beach bums and California hippies alike. The Tacoma may not be the cheapest new truck on the market but it sure does hold up its values well. We liked the first generation "Tacos" because of their reliability. It should be noted that recent complaints about this generation's inadequate rustproofing (specifically 1995-2000 year models) prompted the company to offer 15-year corrosion warranties to all Tacoma owners.
Cheap Thrills: The Cheapest Cars With Satellite Radio And iPod Connectors
Changing Times, Cheaper Rides
If we roll back the clock one decade, you wouldn't find a single car available with satellite radio or iPod connectors. Reason? Neither technology had been invented yet. Satellite radio showed up on the scene in September of 2001 and the already iconic iPod first made its way into consumers' eager hands one month later. Roll that clock forward a couple of years and some cars were capable of playing satellite radio and/or connecting to your iPod, but they were very expensive high end models. As time marched on, both technologies began to trickle down to cheaper cars, but both Satellite Radio and iPod connectivity remained expensive options. As we make our way into 2010, both are now cheap and commonplace in cars of all stripes and sizes. Here's some of the cheapest cars with one or the other – or both!
Cheapest Cars To Drive
Americans may be snubbing trucks and sport utility vehicles in favor of fuel-efficient, smaller cars, but when it comes to saving money over the long haul, a range of costs -- from depreciation to maintenance to taxes to insurance -- has to be considered. This is especially important for a simple reason: Small cars aren't right for everyone.
In other words, when it comes to saving money on a car, size isn't everything. And neither is the sticker price.
In Pictures: Cheapest Cars To Drive
"The sticker price is truly the tip of the iceberg," says Christie Hyde, a spokeswoman for AAA, the consumer motor vehicle association.
To find the least expensive-to-drive car in the class that best suits your needs, you'll need to do some homework as to what you'll be spending money on the instant you drive off the lot. And gauging what's most important to you -- be it fuel efficiency or depreciation or reliability --could quickly sway your purchasing decision.
For example, it doesn't take much intuition to figure out that one of the least expensive cars to drive over a five-year period is indeed a small car, the $11,550 Toyota Yaris, which gets an Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)- estimated combined 31 mpg. The five-year cost of owning the car is, on average, $33,831 (triple the purchase price), which is modest so far as long-term car expenses go. It's wise to consider, however, that while the car will save you on gas, with fuel taking up about 30% of the long-term costs (assuming you drive 15,000 miles per year), you'll be hit hard on depreciation. The car depreciates at a rate of 73% -- the fastest of any car on our list.
Similarly, the popular Toyota Prius hybrid claims a spot on the list, with a markedly low 17.9% of the five-year costs going to fuel. But this car also depreciates quickly (though only just less than half the rate of the Yaris), as those in the market for a hybrid want the latest and newest technology, not a car that's a few years old.
Because of the range of factors that go into considering a car's expense over the first few years of ownership, the rest of the list of the least expensive cars to drive is a m?nge with as many standouts as surprises. Some are fuel-efficient, some aren't, some hold their value well, others not so much.
Behind The Numbers
To identify the 10 least expensive cars to drive we used data provided by Vincentric, a firm that tracks vehicle life expenses for the auto industry. To calculate the cost of ownership, Vincentric evaluates depreciation, interest and opportunity costs, fuel, maintenance and repairs, insurance, taxes and fees over a five-year period. We then divided the market into 10 vehicle classes to find the least expensive-to-own 2008 models in each.
The most fuel-efficient and more affordable cars aren't necessarily the cheapest to own. Finding a spot on the list is the $43,175 Cadillac DTS luxury sedan. The cost of fueling this car is the highest of any on the list, helping boost the five-year cost of ownership to $69,663. However, the car's depreciation rate is among the lowest on the list, at 38%, and insurance is only 10% of the total cost -- far less, percentage-wise, than that of the Yaris or the Prius.
Why such high insurance costs for the cheaper cars? Smaller cars usually have higher auto insurance rates than larger vehicles because they tend to have higher rates of injury and collision claims, says Russ Rader, spokesman for the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. "Small cars are less safe than bigger vehicles, so people are more likely to be injured in them when they crash, and small cars also tend to get into more crashes to begin with, so they have more insurance claims for repair."
Big Car, Low Price
Also noteworthy on the list, then, is the Jeep Patriot, which has a long-term cost of ownership similar to that of the Toyota Prius. Along with a base MSRP about $4,000 lower than that of the Prius, the Patriot is among the more fuel-efficient SUVs on the road, getting a combined EPA of 24 mpg (thus reducing the fuel costs), and has one of the lowest maintenance and repair costs of any vehicle on the list. The insurance costs are also among the lowest on the list.
Where the Jeep isn't so hot is on depreciation, but the same could be said for any car on the list. Paying close attention to depreciation, in fact, is critical since a whopping 60% of the cost of ownership occurs in the first year, and most of that will be depreciation. Depreciation is also the largest annual ownership cost for vehicles up to six years old, according to Consumer Reports.
But because so many other factors are at play as well, car buyers are best served thinking about their individual needs first and foremost. There's no point in buying a cheap-to-drive small car if it doesn't fit everyone in your family, for example. After thinking about the class of car that's right for you, then start doing your homework.
In Pictures: Cheapest Cars To Drive
"People are finally starting to understand how these costs work," says David Wurster, president of Vincentric. "As the economy gets a little tighter, consumers are becoming smarter at looking at the total cost of ownership."
In other words, when it comes to saving money on a car, size isn't everything. And neither is the sticker price.
In Pictures: Cheapest Cars To Drive
"The sticker price is truly the tip of the iceberg," says Christie Hyde, a spokeswoman for AAA, the consumer motor vehicle association.
To find the least expensive-to-drive car in the class that best suits your needs, you'll need to do some homework as to what you'll be spending money on the instant you drive off the lot. And gauging what's most important to you -- be it fuel efficiency or depreciation or reliability --could quickly sway your purchasing decision.
For example, it doesn't take much intuition to figure out that one of the least expensive cars to drive over a five-year period is indeed a small car, the $11,550 Toyota Yaris, which gets an Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)- estimated combined 31 mpg. The five-year cost of owning the car is, on average, $33,831 (triple the purchase price), which is modest so far as long-term car expenses go. It's wise to consider, however, that while the car will save you on gas, with fuel taking up about 30% of the long-term costs (assuming you drive 15,000 miles per year), you'll be hit hard on depreciation. The car depreciates at a rate of 73% -- the fastest of any car on our list.
Similarly, the popular Toyota Prius hybrid claims a spot on the list, with a markedly low 17.9% of the five-year costs going to fuel. But this car also depreciates quickly (though only just less than half the rate of the Yaris), as those in the market for a hybrid want the latest and newest technology, not a car that's a few years old.
Because of the range of factors that go into considering a car's expense over the first few years of ownership, the rest of the list of the least expensive cars to drive is a m?nge with as many standouts as surprises. Some are fuel-efficient, some aren't, some hold their value well, others not so much.
Behind The Numbers
To identify the 10 least expensive cars to drive we used data provided by Vincentric, a firm that tracks vehicle life expenses for the auto industry. To calculate the cost of ownership, Vincentric evaluates depreciation, interest and opportunity costs, fuel, maintenance and repairs, insurance, taxes and fees over a five-year period. We then divided the market into 10 vehicle classes to find the least expensive-to-own 2008 models in each.
The most fuel-efficient and more affordable cars aren't necessarily the cheapest to own. Finding a spot on the list is the $43,175 Cadillac DTS luxury sedan. The cost of fueling this car is the highest of any on the list, helping boost the five-year cost of ownership to $69,663. However, the car's depreciation rate is among the lowest on the list, at 38%, and insurance is only 10% of the total cost -- far less, percentage-wise, than that of the Yaris or the Prius.
Why such high insurance costs for the cheaper cars? Smaller cars usually have higher auto insurance rates than larger vehicles because they tend to have higher rates of injury and collision claims, says Russ Rader, spokesman for the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. "Small cars are less safe than bigger vehicles, so people are more likely to be injured in them when they crash, and small cars also tend to get into more crashes to begin with, so they have more insurance claims for repair."
Big Car, Low Price
Also noteworthy on the list, then, is the Jeep Patriot, which has a long-term cost of ownership similar to that of the Toyota Prius. Along with a base MSRP about $4,000 lower than that of the Prius, the Patriot is among the more fuel-efficient SUVs on the road, getting a combined EPA of 24 mpg (thus reducing the fuel costs), and has one of the lowest maintenance and repair costs of any vehicle on the list. The insurance costs are also among the lowest on the list.
Where the Jeep isn't so hot is on depreciation, but the same could be said for any car on the list. Paying close attention to depreciation, in fact, is critical since a whopping 60% of the cost of ownership occurs in the first year, and most of that will be depreciation. Depreciation is also the largest annual ownership cost for vehicles up to six years old, according to Consumer Reports.
But because so many other factors are at play as well, car buyers are best served thinking about their individual needs first and foremost. There's no point in buying a cheap-to-drive small car if it doesn't fit everyone in your family, for example. After thinking about the class of car that's right for you, then start doing your homework.
In Pictures: Cheapest Cars To Drive
"People are finally starting to understand how these costs work," says David Wurster, president of Vincentric. "As the economy gets a little tighter, consumers are becoming smarter at looking at the total cost of ownership."
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